One summer ago, the fish and chip industry in the region faced closures and a tragic loss. During that time, a lorry loaded with the first batch of fresh potatoes of the season embarked on its journey along Scotland’s east coast. The lorry carefully maneuvered through the narrow streets of East Neuk of Fife, avoiding obstacles like laundry lines, bollards, and seagulls while making its deliveries. In this region, it was understood that nobody would ever get angry and honk at the incoming “tattie” lorry because fish and chips were a crucial meal supporting the local economy. People from all over would travel long distances to savor this delicacy while enjoying the scenic views from the old harbor walls.
The fish and chips served in East Neuk were widely regarded as the best in the British Isles, and by extension, the rest of the planet. However, by July 2022, local friers faced increasing difficulties in managing their finances. Richard Murray, the driver of the tattie lorry, a cheerful Scotsman, carried keys to most of the businesses on his route. He did this to avoid waking up tired friers who had spent the previous night anxiously calculating their expenses. The combination of the war in Ukraine and the ongoing complications from Brexit had led to price hikes in almost all the goods required by fish and chip shops, including fresh ingredients, oil, salt, and packaging. The rising energy costs were even more concerning. To prepare this meal, a significant amount of energy was required to keep the range cooker running throughout the trading day. As gas and electricity prices continued to skyrocket in 2022, friers dreaded opening their energy bills, fearing the potential impact on their businesses.
The National Federation of Fish Friers, a trade association, warned that up to a third of the UK’s 10,500 fish and chip shops might be forced to close, referring to it as a potential “extinction event”.
One morning around 8am, Murray arrived with his tattie lorry in Pittenweem, where he was greeted by Alec Wyse, a skilled frier who ran a takeaway called the Pittenweem Fish Bar. The tiny shop, adorned with nautical portraits, had been purchased by Wyse’s father using funds from the sale of a family fishing boat. A menu displayed on wooden letters listed eight consistent items, one simply labeled “FISH”. Together, Wyse and Murray unloaded sacks of potatoes from the lorry and carried them inside.
Continuing along the shoreline, Murray parked his lorry outside the Wee Chippy in Anstruther. Founded by Ian Fleming, a 64-year-old seafood trader with a shark tattoo on his forearm, the Wee Chippy stood across from a beach covered in seaweed and a cobbled jetty. Fleming later shared that the fish and chip shop had caused strain on his marriage due to the demanding hours. While daily operations had been passed on to his business partner, a chef named Chris Lewis, Fleming still kept a keen eye on the shop, which had become a significant part of his life.
As Murray completed his deliveries and headed towards Dundee, he parked his lorry outside the Popular, a bright and compact fish and chip shop. Painted in brown and baize green, the Popular’s facade resembled a sideways snooker table. The shop was a family affair, with Graham Forbes, his wife Angela, and their two adult children working six days a week. Despite being in his mid-70s, Forbes was the one who rose early to let Murray in, usually starting his day as the sun came up to feed the potatoes into the peeler.
These three businesses, the Pittenweem Fish Bar, the Wee Chippy, and the Popular, shared not only a potato supplier but also the unwavering support of their communities. They were run by resilient individuals who had developed toughened skin, both literally and metaphorically. Their fingertips had become desensitized to heat from working constantly with boiling oil, positioning fillets of fish and testing the readiness of crisp potatoes. However, even these resilient individuals were not immune to the strains of their work.
Over the course of a difficult year, I visited the East Neuk multiple times, witnessing the challenges faced by these friers as they navigated fierce competition while offering support to one another. They tirelessly prepared for tomorrow, cooked for today, and calculated their numbers at night, all to avoid becoming another casualty in the decline of fish and chip shops. Between July 2022 and July 2023, the situation in the East Neuk became increasingly arduous and somber, exceeding everyone’s expectations. By my final visit, the community was grieving the loss of a beloved figure who had dedicated themselves to a cherished trade, which now faced uncertainty. In that moment, it was no longer difficult to imagine a world without fish and chips.
The origin of fish and chips remains a topic of debate among historians. The question of whether Londoners or Lancastrians should take credit for its creation and spread is unsolvable. The dish originated from a fusion of immigrant cuisines, brought, perfected, and sustained by refugees and individuals from Portugal, Spain, Eastern Europe, Italy, Cyprus, Greece, and China. The method of deep-frying white fish in a batter made of flour and egg or milk likely arrived in London with Jewish immigrants escaping persecution. Chipped potatoes, referred to as “French-style,” were already being sold from carts in the industrial towns around Manchester in the 1860s.
Regardless of the name given to these establishments, whether chippy, chippie, chippery, chipper, fishery, fish bar, or fish restaurant, they multiplied across the country throughout the 20th century. From the northernmost Frankie’s in Shetland to the Smugglers in the southern tip of Cornwall, these shops became ubiquitous. The cooking method remained consistent – fillets of white fish, typically haddock or cod, were coated in a thick, golden batter and deep-fried in hot oil at 180°C. Experienced friers would attentively tend to the fish, using a metal strainer to turn and baste it as the batter crisped. After about five minutes, the fish would emerge delicately golden, maintaining its curved shape like a banana, ready to be served alongside a portion of chips.
As for the chips, they were made from white potatoes, peeled and cut into thick cuts, submerged in the same sizzling oil until they attained a crispy exterior. There is a preference in Scotland to avoid frying cod, which is considered an English delicacy. However, it is generally accepted that potatoes grown in the drier soil of England are better suited for frying due to their lower glucose content, resulting in less caramelization. However, national pride knows its limits, and brown chips are not widely embraced.
Ideally, after indulging in a serving of fish and chips, one should be aware that they have consumed a generous amount of oil, yet not feel greasy themselves. This paradox of richness without the heaviness of grease is what makes this dish truly heavenly.
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