In the gripping moments just before the opening of the restaurant in the season two finale of The Bear, head chef Carmy surprises sous-chef Sydney with a Thom Browne box. Inside the box is a pristine white chef coat adorned with the iconic Thom Browne stripes on the sleeve. Throughout the chaotic and dramatic episode, Sydney miraculously manages to keep the coat spotless. This clever placement of Thom Browne’s design in a show known for its clothing choices proves to be a brilliant marketing move.
Despite his lack of familiarity with the show, Thom Browne acknowledges the significance of creator Chris Storer’s support and his friendship with lead actors Ayo Edebiri and Jeremy Allen White. While Browne may not be a household name, he has been at the forefront of the fashion industry for the past two decades, reshaping men’s suits and introducing tight shorts and impeccably tailored grey suits that have influenced the male silhouette. His innovative designs have challenged the conventions of men’s clothing, solidifying his impact in the fashion world.
Anna Wintour, the editor of US Vogue, attests to the lasting influence of Browne’s “penguin” silhouette, which has become an integral part of fashion. Browne’s preference for short trousers and unique fits often prompts questions about the practicality of his designs. However, he remains unwavering in his vision, emphasizing that his designs reflect his personal style and desire to present familiar ideas in an unconventional way.
Born in Allentown, Pennsylvania in 1965, Browne initially pursued acting in Los Angeles before settling in New York and working as a designer for Ralph Lauren’s Club Monaco. Now, two decades since founding his own label, 2023 marks a significant year for Browne. He has taken on the role of chair of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and released a monograph to commemorate the anniversary of his brand.
Browne’s designs have gained popularity due to the demand for sportswear and his ability to create tailored pieces reminiscent of school uniforms with a twist of S&M aesthetics. Unisex dog-shaped handbags and pleated skirts for men are among his notable creations. He has also expanded into women’s fashion and famously dressed Michelle Obama for the 2013 inauguration in a sophisticated coat-dress. Browne’s bold decision to feature men in his women’s line tailoring drew attention and praise from the fashion world.
In 2018, Browne faced legal challenges from Adidas regarding his use of four stripes in his designs. Despite the legal battle, Browne emerged victorious, setting an example for small companies facing off against larger corporations. He believes in the importance of protecting designers and their creations from unjust exploitation.
Browne’s business has flourished over the years, occupying four floors in the garment district of New York City. The brand’s aesthetic is reflected in its head-to-toe grey uniforms, grey walls, and Browne’s own attire – a grey suit with shorts. His choice of bureaucratic grey as the brand color stems from his desire to defy traditional fashion norms. While the brand’s atmosphere may be grey, Browne’s fashion shows are anything but monotonous. Recently, he orchestrated a memorable show in Paris that featured cardboard cutouts of men in grey suits, accompanied by Cardi B, Diane Keaton, and a flock of fake pigeons.
Browne’s partner, Andrew Bolton, is the curator of the costume institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Together, they inhabit the upper echelons of the New York fashion scene. However, they prefer the comfort of their home, watching TV and revisiting classics like Brideshead Revisited.
Despite facing challenges, Browne’s label has endured, and in 2018, it caught the attention of luxury house Ermenegildo Zegna, which acquired an 85% stake in the company. Browne’s collection this season draws inspiration from Moby-Dick, a book he read as a child. It features a unique dark green Harris tweed skirt for men, embodying Browne’s belief that men should have the freedom to wear anything in today’s world.
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