Beginner’s Guide to Bothying: Staying for Free at Scotland’s Rustic Retreats

Experience the ultimate adventure by bothying in the wilderness of the Scottish Highlands. Bothies, simple and remote dwellings, offer a unique opportunity to stay for free, allowing you to immerse yourself in breathtaking landscapes. These minimalist cottages and cabins, equipped with basic amenities such as a sleeping platform and a wood-burning stove, are often located in picturesque areas such as mountain passes, lakeshores, wooded areas, and rugged shores.

Maintained by the Mountain Bothy Association, a charity dedicated to preserving these shelters, bothies provide hikers and mountain bikers unrestricted access to some of the most spectacular landscapes in the UK. While the majority of bothies are found in Scotland’s mountains and wilderness areas, each with its own charm, there is a bothy to suit every adventurer’s taste.

Bothying is not for the faint of heart, as you must earn the privilege to stay in one by reaching it. Some bothies, like Ben Alder Cottage in the Central Highlands, require a 16km pilgrimage through undisturbed nature. Others, such as Ryvoan in the Cairngorms, offer a more accessible journey, only requiring a short walk or bike ride through scenic paths. The reward for your efforts is a unique and awe-inspiring experience in the heart of nature.

Respecting bothy etiquette is crucial to the bothying culture. Following the Bothy Code, which emphasizes cleanliness, proper waste management, and consideration for other users, is essential. Most hikers adhere to this code, packing out their rubbish and sometimes leaving behind useful supplies like matches or dried food. Sharing a bothy with strangers often creates a sense of camaraderie, where stories of hiking adventures and snacks are shared around the warm fire.

Recently, I had the opportunity to explore the Assynt region in the Scottish Highlands during Helly Hansen’s Open Mountain month. This sparsely populated area, home to stunning mountains, offers a pristine wilderness experience. Standing tall among them is Suilven, a magnificent peak that requires a 19km round trip trek and a challenging 500-meter ascent to reach the summit. The effort is undoubtedly worth it when you are rewarded with panoramic vistas of mountains, lochs, and the sparkling sea below.

During my visit, I had a chance to speak with Tim Hamlet, the leader of the Assynt Mountain Rescue Team, who shared some valuable tips for mountain adventurers. Tim emphasized the importance of planning and preparation, sharing your itinerary with a trusted person, and ensuring you have a charged phone and portable battery pack for emergencies. Additionally, wearing high-quality and weather-appropriate gear is crucial for a safe trek.

Back in the valley, I discovered the Suileag bothy nestled in Suilven’s foothills. This well-maintained bothy provides a cozy and comfortable shelter, with separate bedrooms and an inviting fireplace. As I arrived on a warm summer evening, the bothy offered a refreshing respite from the clouds of midges that had followed me all day. I was able to relax, enjoy the sunset, and savor the tranquility of the surroundings.

Bothying allows you to disconnect from the outside world and connect with nature on a profound level. It offers a unique opportunity to experience the wild and untamed landscapes of Scotland while embracing a sense of respect and responsibility towards the environment and fellow adventurers. So, pack your bags, leave no trace, and embark on an unforgettable bothying adventure in the heart of the Scottish Highlands.

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