Have you taken a stroll through an Asian supermarket or your local Chinese bakery recently? If so, you’ve likely come across boxes of golden-brown mooncakes up for sale. These dense pastries, about the size of a hockey puck, are filled with delicious flavors like lotus seed, red bean, and salted egg yolk. Mooncakes are a traditional treat enjoyed during the Mid-Autumn Festival, which falls on the 15th day of the eighth month of the lunar calendar. This year, the festival will be celebrated on September 29.
However, beyond their reputation as beloved delicacies, mooncakes also have an unexpected history tied to political rebellion. According to folk tales, during the Yuan Dynasty, Chinese rebels led by future Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang and his military advisor Liu Bowen used mooncakes as a means of secret communication while fighting against the Mongols. The stories vary in their details, but the essence remains the same: “Uprising on August 15th.”
As captivating as these tales may be, the truth is that they are likely more fiction than fact. Miranda Brown, a professor of Chinese Studies at the University of Michigan, expresses doubt about their accuracy. Nevertheless, modern-day protesters in Hong Kong have transformed this myth into reality in recent years, capitalizing on the mooncake’s unique ability to convey political messages.
Mooncakes come in a variety of forms and styles, ranging from the chewy Cantonese-style crust with intricate designs to flaky Taiwanese pastries with a seal on top. The Hong Kong protesters have opted for the elaborate Cantonese-style crust. These mooncakes are made by baking dough pressed into molds and can feature elaborate patterns and messages. The crust is typically a thin and tender pastry made with lard or vegetable oil. Modern variations, such as “snow skin” mooncakes, have a mochi-like exterior that isn’t baked. The fillings can be made from a wide array of ingredients, but traditional options include lotus seed, sweet red bean, mixed nuts, and occasionally salted egg yolk. The stamped tops of mooncakes usually feature auspicious phrases like “prosperity” (福), “family harmony” (花好月圆), or descriptions of the fillings. However, they have also become a convenient vehicle for spreading radical messages disguised as a traditional delicacy.
Food holds significant political symbolism in China, and mooncakes are no exception. Mooncakes are often considered luxury items due to their high prices, making them ideal as gifts for building or solidifying relationships. As a result, the government can regulate mooncakes to crack down on corruption and illicit relationships. Once a food becomes politicized, one side uses it as a statement, and the other side responds in another direction.
In 2012, Hong Kong artist Wilson Shieh, from the Woofer Ten art collective, created mooncakes adorned with messages like “Anti-rent increase” and “Fight the landlords.” He sold these mooncakes to raise funds for activists convicted of unlawful assembly after a commemorative vigil for the 1989 Tiananmen Square massacre turned violent.
Mooncakes hold both cultural and political significance in Chinese society. So the next time you come across these delectable treats, remember their rich history and the powerful messages they can convey.
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