Dior transformed the Musée Rodin in Paris into a captivating blend of art gallery and fashion runway within its garden. A notable guest, rapper Cardi B, made an appearance to witness the Schiaparelli show. She wore a stunning black velvet gown adorned with gold earrings resembling a pair of giant ears hanging down to her shoulders.
Despite recent unrest in Paris following the tragic death of Nahel M, a 17-year-old in a suburb of the city, the haute couture shows in the French capital continued as usual. These shows, where dresses are individually crafted for wealthy clients at exorbitant prices, represent the most exclusive part of French fashion. The fact that they carried on unaffected by the disturbances in less affluent areas highlights the deep divisions within French society.
Celine was the only brand to acknowledge the events by canceling a menswear show scheduled for Sunday evening, with designer Hedi Slimane expressing on Instagram that holding a fashion show in Paris during such a time seemed insensitive and inappropriate.
Other fashion houses, such as Courrèges and Chloé, also called off their planned parties for the weekend. However, by Sunday evening, the heightened police presence observed earlier in the city center had decreased, allowing Maison Alaïa to hold a picturesque outdoor show on the Solferino footbridge. Tourists on pleasure cruises and 200 guests seated on the bridge enjoyed the show.
At Schiaparelli, business continued as usual but with a surreal twist. The current designer, Daniel Roseberry, has magnified the visual jokes that originally connected Elsa Schiaparelli with her friend Salvador Dalí. For the social media era, he has enlarged these elements, such as measuring tape belts for her and lobster telephones for him. The show took place beneath the frescoed ceiling of the Petit Palais and included a puffer coat inflated to the size of a small bouncy castle, as well as a black cocktail dress with a keyhole cut-out showcasing the belly button.
For Dior, the goddesses served as the inspiration for the season. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri recreated the draped marble robes seen in classical sculptures using chiffon and georgette. She focused on the idea of “apparent simplicity,” a sentiment shared by Christian Dior himself. Chiuri emphasized silhouette, with capes bringing grandeur, pleats adding movement, and slim twisted ropes crisscrossing the shoulders and back imparting romance. The collection eschewed bright colors, intricate patterns, hardware, buckles, shoulder pads, and high heels, instead prioritizing comfort and simplicity.
Chiuri acknowledged that couture worn by celebrities has become a form of personal performance, but she also highlighted that it can be about understated silhouettes, comfortable clothing, and flat shoes.
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