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Last week, I made a purchase at Primark: a bra from their “Primark Cares” range. This bra, made in China, caught my attention not only because of its “green credentials” and affordable price, but also because of its appealing design. Unlike other bras, it provided a comfortable fit, seamless fabric, and a perfect shape. I bought a set of bra and knickers for just £6 and gave the matching thong to my daughter.
Shopping in 2023 often comes with a sense of guilt. As a former fashion editor and current editor of a consumer title that promotes investment and artisanship, I am aware of the alarming statistics: we discard around 92 million tons of clothing in landfills every year, and only 20% of textiles are collected for reuse or recycling worldwide.
In the past, impulse shopping was a common activity for me, but over time, I have learned to exercise restraint. However, I find myself wearing this bra frequently and it withstands multiple washes. It defies the perception that mass-produced items are disposable. While I could have bought a more expensive item from a renowned brand or celebrity designer, price alone doesn’t guarantee ethical or environmentally friendly production, especially in the realm of lingerie.
Despite the criticism surrounding fast fashion, high street retailers can still offer excellent value. My wardrobe contains designer garments that are rarely worn, whereas a trio of T-shirts I purchased from Uniqlo 15 years ago are in constant rotation. Does my appreciation for this cheap bra carry the same weight as these cherished items? According to Rachel Arthur, a sustainability consultant and writer, the answer is a resounding no. She highlights the true cost of producing cheap items, including their carbon, water, and pollution impacts. Additionally, such items release microplastics into waterways during washing.
Tiffanie Darke is currently writing a book on sustainable wardrobing and its core dilemmas. In an effort to emphasize our detrimental landfill habits, Darke committed to buying only five fashion items this year. She explains the environmental footprint associated with producing both recycled and virgin nylon, as well as the non-degradable nature of the tiny metal fastenings in bras. Darke urges me to contact Primark for information about the bra’s supply chain, to which they respond promptly, assuring that their suppliers in China meet the standards outlined in the Primark Code of Conduct.
Lingerie presents a unique challenge in the sustainability arena, as current alternatives often lack durability and support. As shopping becomes increasingly polarized, with behaviors categorized as “good” or “bad,” it is important to consider the impact of one’s means. Furthermore, sustainability metrics in fashion are frequently misused, as highlighted by Veronica Bates Kassatly and Dorothée Baumann-Pauly in “The Great Green Washing Machine Part 2”. Tiffanie Darke emphasizes that sustainability calculations should account for how frequently garments are worn. The key is buying less, choosing well, and making items last.
During my childhood, the mantra was to choose well and make things last. Generations before me knitted, stitched, and sewed their own clothes. Unfortunately, I belong to a generation that witnessed the rise of fast fashion. Shopping still feels like a micro-hobby and provides an effortless dopamine boost.
I must confess that I recently returned to Primark and purchased two, okay, four more sets. To justify this purchase, I may just have to be buried in these bras.
Email Jo at [email protected]
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