Receive free travel updates with our daily email newsletter, myFT Daily Digest, which provides a roundup of the latest travel news every morning. In 1913, the survivors of the Terra Nova expedition arrived in Lyttelton Harbour after enduring three years of harsh conditions in Antarctica. Their arrival was met with astonishment as they had left a frozen wasteland and entered a vibrant and bewildering world. Apsley Cherry-Garrard, an explorer and diarist, described the stark contrast in his book The Worst Journey in the World. The men were warmly welcomed ashore, where they began to share the harrowing tale of Captain Scott’s ill-fated mission to the South Pole. One hundred and 10 years later, not all ships are received with the same warmth in Lyttelton’s old port. Upon my return from an Antarctic voyage, I noticed graffiti outside the port authority’s boundary that read “CRUISE SHIPS NO NO GOOD.” The anger behind this sentiment stems from issues such as a decline in water quality since the return of large cruise ships post-pandemic and an egg shortage due to new animal welfare regulations. The locals feel overwhelmed by the demands of the cruise ships and lament the impact on their small community.
Located near Christchurch, Lyttelton is a unique town that values independence and rejects chain stores. Its residents, often characterized by their facial piercings, have a strong grip on the town’s identity. However, their particular brand of gentrification has brought about positive changes, such as a thriving farmers’ market and excellent coffee. Lyttelton’s stunning location, nestled in the bay with views of the volcanic Banks Peninsula, adds to its charm. After being at sea for a month, the town felt like a fresh start for me, a place to immerse myself in greenery and the scents of late-summer flowers. I spent a week there, exploring the town and engaging in animated conversations fueled by copious amounts of coffee. To show my gratitude to my friend, Andrea, who is an Antarctic guide part of the year, I wanted to take her to the best restaurant in town. However, it seemed to have closed due to the pandemic. Fortunately, another smaller restaurant had taken its place. This is where I encountered Giulio Sturla at the Mapu Test Kitchen. Sturla, originally from Chile, had taken on the challenge of running the entire restaurant himself. From hand-picking fruits from the garden outside to doing the washing-up, Sturla wanted to avoid laying off staff and ensure quality by utilizing premium ingredients. He only needed to serve 20 covers a week for it to be a success. Despite the potential challenges of a one-man operation, Sturla exuded confidence. He recognized the potential risks but appreciated the control he had over his life. Sturla saw the restaurant as one part of his life rather than the sole focus.
In a fascinating conversation with Sturla, we discussed food, Lyttelton, and the circumstances that led to the creation of his previous restaurant after the earthquakes in 2010 and 2011. We pondered whether calamity is a catalyst for entrepreneurship, and while Sturla laughed and shrugged, the question lingered. The following evening, Andrea and I arrived at the Mapu Test Kitchen for a five-course dinner. We shared the intimate space with four other guests, all from the West Coast of the United States. The couple to our right were gastronomes from San Francisco, with one of them working at a prestigious Michelin-starred restaurant. To our left, a retired couple who had made their fortune in the tech industry. As we embarked on our culinary journey, Sturla mesmerized us with his creativity and energy. He effortlessly moved between cooking, engaging in conversation, and handling future reservations, all while maintaining the high quality of his dishes. From crayfish with banana noodles to whitebait cooked in fig leaves, and pine-cone torched beef, Sturla’s innovative approach to cuisine was a truly unique experience. Although this model may not be sustainable in the long run, it undeniably created beautiful moments.
For more information on visiting Lyttelton, including details about the Mapu Test Kitchen, visit lytteltoninfocentre.nz and newzealand.com. Stay updated with our latest stories by following @ftweekend on Twitter.
Denial of responsibility! VigourTimes is an automatic aggregator of Global media. In each content, the hyperlink to the primary source is specified. All trademarks belong to their rightful owners, and all materials to their authors. For any complaint, please reach us at – [email protected]. We will take necessary action within 24 hours.
