In a nation comprised of islands, there is still so much for Filipinos to discover about each other. From their way of life, celebrations, language, and local cuisine, the Filipino people are both united and diverse. In the midst of this diversity, the Muslims of Mindanao stand as a minority. Having grown up in the city of Marawi, which has been heavily affected by war, my early years revolved around religious traditions and local culture. I remember a bustling city filled with the call to prayer echoing through the streets, the tantalizing scent of piaparan dishes (those cooked with grated coconut) enticing potential diners, and the breathtaking view of Lake Lanao captivating both locals and visitors.
For the Maranao people, their love for spicy cuisine is a defining characteristic. This can largely be attributed to their frequent use of the sili ingredient in their cooking. While not every Maranao has a high tolerance for spiciness, it is generally accepted that most do. This preference for spicy food may be attributed to the chili pepper’s ability to counter the cold and rainy climate of Lanao del Sur.
During a visit to neighboring Iligan City, I had the opportunity to try one of their popular silog meals called tosilog, which consists of chicken tocino with a fried egg and a cup of rice. Typically eaten for breakfast, tosilog is known for its appealing reddish color. One might assume that it would have a strong peppery flavor, possibly even spicy, as a Maranao would prefer. However, this expectation is shattered once you taste its sweetness. A Maranao would find sweetness in a non-dessert dish quite unusual. The addition of sugar contradicts the acquired taste nurtured by Lanao cooking. For dishes like tocino and other sweet-blend dishes, one may choose to leave their plate unfinished. However, considering the Filipino inclination towards sweet-tasting food, many may have a more optimistic reaction. The presence of sweetness in Filipino cuisine, referred to as manamis-namis by the late food critic Doreen Fernandez, is not uncommon.
Even dishes with Spanish and Mexican influences during the colonial period have been uniquely characterized by Filipino creativity, often including a hint of sweetness, as seen in tamales. Even Jollibee, the country’s homegrown fast-food chain, is known for its sweet-tasting spaghetti, contributing to the perception of Filipino cuisine as sweet by foreigners. But why all the sugar? The Philippines was once a major sugar exporter, thanks to its abundance of sugar cane. It only makes sense that Filipinos would utilize this resource in their cooking. While certain local dishes may have colonial influences, the presence of sweetness can be seen as a testament to Filipino creativity.
However, not all forms of creativity are universally appreciated. When it comes to Maranao cuisine, sweetness is rarely associated with taste. Instead, it is the spiciness that stands out, giving their dishes a hot sensation and a lingering peppery flavor after a hearty meal. Young Maranaos develop a fondness for this spicy cuisine, which is why Maranao-run restaurants, including those in Quiapo, always incorporate spiciness into their dishes. Their signature condiment, palapa, made with white scallion, ginger, and luya tidk (bird’s eye chili), plays an integral role in Maranao meals. These ingredients are what distinguish Maranao cuisine. Vinegar is to adobo or kinilaw as papar (grated coconut meat) and luya tidk are to Maranao dishes. Papar adds texture and enhances flavor, while luya tidk is an essential component. In fact, hearing the phrase “kenaba tanto a maloia,” which means the dish lacks that kick, could be taken as a subtle sign of disapproval. Turmeric, another important ingredient, contributes to the bright yellow coloring typically found in Maranao cuisine.
Filipino cuisine varies from region to region. The Ilocos region is known for its bitter-tasting cuisine, while Bicol is obsessed with spiciness. Filipino cuisine teaches us that a good blend of flavors creates an interesting combination. To truly appreciate local cuisine, one must be open-minded and willing to understand its unique qualities.
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