A Comprehensive Expert’s Weekend Guide to Florence


On your way to the eastern part of Oltrarno, you can enjoy the picturesque Boboli Gardens, which are the largest green space in central Florence. The gardens feature fountains, grottoes, tranquil paths, and statues covered in lichen. To avoid the crowds, enter through the quieter Annalena entrance on Via Romana.

Located in Florence’s artisan quarter, the charming Piazza della Passera is home to the hidden gem, Gelateria della Passera. Here, Cinzia Otri has received numerous awards for her delightful gelato creations, including classic flavors like coffee, chocolate, and almond, as well as more innovative options like Mojito and Fatal Attraction. One must-try is the yoghurt and apricot mix garnished with glazed apricots and white sesame seeds.

The narrow, cobblestone streets surrounding the square are filled with workshops that have been flourishing since the 16th century when the Medicis settled in the nearby Palazzo Pitti. These workshops house skilled craftsmen such as cabinet makers, seamstresses, bookbinders, gilders, and furniture restorers. You have the opportunity to visit many of these workshops, known as “botteghe” in Italian, to observe the artisans at work during their shop hours. Just be mindful not to disrupt their work. Shop hours can vary, but they are usually open from Monday to Friday, 8:30am-12:30pm and 3-6pm.

A short distance from Piazza Santo Spirito, which hosts a small daily market, is the heart of the boho-chic Oltrarno district. The namesake church of the district, Santo Spirito, is Brunelleschi’s final and unfinished masterpiece. Although its façade appears plain, the interior is a sanctuary of serene beauty and exquisite proportions.

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