Once upon a time, garlic presses were in high demand, serving as the perfect accessory for health-conscious cooks who embraced low-fat options, indulged in carbs, and had a pasta maker at the ready. However, as food trends evolved (goodbye Snackwells, hello keto), the once-trendy garlic press fell out of favor. In his memoir “Kitchen Confidential,” the late Anthony Bourdain famously referred to garlic presses as “abominations” and advised against using them, stating, “Don’t put garlic through a press. I don’t know what that stuff is that comes out, but it’s definitely not garlic.”
In a recent TikTok video titled “Everybody’s Wrong About Using A Garlic Press,” Christopher Kimball of Milk Street offered his perspective on garlic presses, claiming that Italians don’t use them. According to Kimball, “If you visit Italy, you’ll never have garlic breath because they don’t use garlic presses there; they do it the right way.” Unable to personally smell the breath of the 59 million people residing in Italy, we decided to conduct our own research.
Garlic contains a crucial compound called allicin. Garlic bulbs grow beneath the surface and possess a “secret weapon” for self-protection – allicin, an organosulfur compound. Olivia Roszkowski, a chef-instructor at the Institute of Culinary Education, explains that allicin acts as a natural defense mechanism to deter animals from consuming garlic. Whether it’s a chipmunk cautiously nibbling on a clove in your garden or a chef’s knife slicing through it, allicin is produced when the cellular structure of garlic is broken. Chef Nettie Colon adds, “This occurs when the enzyme alliinase, found in the garlic’s casing, interacts with alliin, found in the cloves, resulting in allicin formation.” And allicin has a distinct odor. Allicin is highly regarded for its immune-boosting and cancer-fighting properties, but it also emits a strong smell. Colon states, “That sulfur-like scent serves as the plant’s defense mechanism.” Once consumed, allicin produces methyl mercaptan, a colorless gas responsible for post-garlic consumption breath. To assign blame where it belongs, Richard LaMarita, chef-instructor of plant-based culinary arts at the Institute of Culinary Education, asserts, “Yes, allicin is the primary cause of garlic breath. The aromatic compounds from garlic, originating from allicin, travel to the intestines, bloodstream, and eventually settle in the lungs for a day or two.”
Allicin is released whenever a garlic clove’s cells are broken, whether through slicing, pressing, or mashing. Wondering how to tell if allicin is being released? Roszkowski notes, “You might notice a sticky liquid when cutting garlic for an extended period. This liquid contains the volatile compound allicin.” The amount of allicin released varies depending on the preparation method. The more damage inflicted on the cells, the more allicin is released, resulting in a stronger flavor and aroma. Roszkowski adds, “Using a garlic press or crusher yields the highest amount of allicin.” Though it may be pungent, the numerous health benefits of allicin make it worth it. You might even tolerate a little extra odor as a trade-off. Colon suggests a hack to further increase its benefits: “To maximize the active amount of allicin, wait at least 10 minutes after chopping garlic before exposing it to heat.”
After years of being cast aside, the garlic press may be due for a reevaluation. Some chefs are rediscovering and reinstating this much-maligned utensil in their culinary arsenals. They argue that there are occasions where thoroughly pressed garlic can enhance the flavor of a dish. Why? Despite Kimball’s opinions on the oral hygiene of an entire Mediterranean region, some individuals enjoy a robust garlic taste in their food and are willing to endure the need for extra brushing or mouthwash after a meal. If these “liberate the garlic!” enthusiasts discreetly utilize a garlic press, that is their prerogative. Those who prefer milder flavors can opt to thinly slice cloves or simply rub cut cloves along serving dishes. If your knife skills leave much to be desired, you may appreciate how a garlic press uniformly breaks down the cloves. And if you desire a consistent garlic flavor in each bite, using a press might be the way to go. Just be prepared to proudly declare that allicin, that organosulfur compound, is the “secret ingredient” in your showstopping dish.
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