When it comes to achievable beauty, the skincare market is saturated with products. Everyone desires soft, supple, and even-toned skin, which is why new products promising these benefits are constantly being released. However, only a few products have been proven to deliver results that dermatologists support, such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C treatments. Recently, there has been excitement among dermatologists about a treatment serum known as “growth factor” and its potential to make the skin look younger, firmer, and more elastic. In this article, three board-certified dermatologists will explain the science behind growth factors and why they are so enthusiastic about the results.
So, what exactly are growth factors? According to Dr. Robyn Gmyrek, a board-certified dermatologist and medical adviser, growth factors can be thought of as proteins. They act as chemical messengers that travel between cells, directing them to turn on or off specific activities like cell growth. In the context of skincare, growth factors can stimulate the production of new collagen, suppress collagen breakdown enzymes, and reduce inflammation. The use of growth factors in skincare has been associated with reducing signs of skin aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and improved skin texture.
Dr. Dan Belkin, another board-certified dermatologist, explains that growth factors have varied effects, but the ones used in skincare often come from and influence fibroblasts. Fibroblasts are cells in the dermis that produce collagen and elastic fibers, which are essential for maintaining skin structure and elasticity.
According to Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist, growth factors signal cells to increase collagen and elastin production, generate more skin cells, strengthen the skin barrier, and heal wounds. This can help prevent and minimize signs of aging.
The source of growth factors can be controversial. They can be extracted from human cell cultures, bioengineered cells that mimic human skin cells, or derived from plants. Gmyrek mentions that growth factors can come from various sources such as epidermal skin cells, human foreskin, placental cells, recombinant bacteria, snails, yeast, and plants. However, it is important for products to specify the source of their growth factors. Most reputable brands use either bioidentical human growth factors or those derived from plants. Belkin assures that growth factor serums from reputable brands are safe in terms of any infectious potential, as lab-grown cultures are kept sterile and disease-free.
So, how exactly does growth factor work in skincare? As our skin ages, collagen and elastin production decline naturally. Combined with exposure to skin stressors like free radicals, this leads to signs of aging such as lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. While it is not possible to permanently increase internal collagen and elastin production, topical products and treatments can help supplement or trigger the body to produce them, resulting in a more youthful appearance. Growth factors, as their name suggests, help skin cells generate collagen and elastin, promoting a supple texture, elasticity, and firmness. In-office laser or microneedling treatments work by wounding the skin to stimulate healing and collagen production. Topical growth factors can achieve similar results without causing wounds.
Despite the potential of growth factors in skincare, Gmyrek believes they should not be used as the sole therapy modality. She predicts that they will be used in combination with other treatments, such as resurfacing lasers and microneedling. Currently, the collagen production, increased elasticity, and anti-wrinkle effects are considered good but still modest. However, Gmyrek expects that with improved formulations for better penetration, growth factors will be routinely used to increase collagen and elasticity in conjunction with other procedures.
While the science behind growth factors in skincare is promising, Belkin cautions consumers to do their research before investing in any “fountain of youth” products. Skincare products are mostly considered cosmetics by the FDA, which means their claims are not regulated as closely as drugs. This allows companies to make various claims on labels without FDA approval. Belkin advises seeking advice from unbiased board-certified dermatologists or critically evaluating clinical data to distinguish between false claims and real benefits.
Gmyrek emphasizes that there are currently no standardized treatment protocols or guidelines for the use or production of topical growth factors for skin rejuvenation. Engelman mentions concerns that growth factors could potentially trigger skin cancer development. However, there is no current evidence supporting this hypothesis. Studies have shown that epidermal growth factors can help strengthen the skin barrier and reduce the appearance of aging signs.
Overall, growth factor serums are an exciting development in skincare. While further research is needed, dermatologists believe that they can improve skin health and provide anti-aging benefits. It is important for consumers to stay informed and choose reputable products backed by scientific evidence.
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