What Is the Minimum Length Acceptable for Men’s Pants?

I have been exploring shorter pants lately, ones that I can pair with a blazer, a T-shirt, or a sweater. I have been altering some of them, but how do I know how short is too short? I want to avoid looking like I’m wearing Capri pants or clown pants. Any tips on getting it right? – Pavel, Athens

The male ankle, or mankle as I like to call it (I’m a fan of word hybrids), has unexpectedly become a controversial body part. The question of whether or not to show off this part of the male anatomy, specifically the talus bone between the tibia, fibula, and heel, has been a topic of debate for years. In fact, back in 2005, designer Thom Browne, who is known for raising men’s hemlines, famously referred to the ankle as “the new male cleavage.”

While Mr. Browne now mostly wears shorts, he once said, “When I did wear trousers, I wore them just above my ankle bone, and I loved them at that length. It annoyed people, and I loved that.” Interestingly, when a man confidently struts around flash- ing his ankle, people can’t help but react. They stare, scratch their heads, and even write articles about it. Recently, The Australian Financial Review published an article titled “Is It Ever OK for Men to Flash Their Ankles in the Office?” (No, I’m not kidding.)

Shorter pants for men, once the butt of jokes labeled as “flood pants,” began gaining popularity again when Thom Browne reintroduced them in 2001. This was largely in response to the oversized suits of the 1990s (looking at you, Michael Jordan). Browne revolutionized the silhouette by slimming down and shortening the pants, giving them a hipster twist on the classic company man look of the 1950s.

At first, the ankle-baring trend was shocking (especially because Browne himself often rocks actual shorts). However, in 2018 Browne’s company was acquired by Zegna in a deal worth $500 million, suggesting that reimagining men’s pants may indeed be the way forward. Since then, this style has been embraced by various celebrities, including British Prime Minister Rishi Sunak.

According to Guy Trebay, the men’s fashion critic at The New York Times, the fit of the trousers is crucial. He points out examples like Kevin McCarthy’s overly tight dad pants, made worse by his choice of bold statement socks. Trebay suggests using a three-way mirror and having a brutally honest friend nearby to judge the fit accurately. He also consulted style influencer Nick Wooster, who advised that pants should generally not go above the ankle bone to avoid making the legs appear shorter.

Another important consideration, according to Trebay, is the width of the leg. The wider the leg, the longer the pants should be, and vice versa for shorter legs. However, Browne’s advice is simple: wear clothes in a way that feels true to your taste, style, and how you want others to perceive you. So, go ahead and show off your mankles if that’s what makes you feel confident!

Interestingly, after attending the latest men’s wear shows in Florence, Milan, and Paris, Mr. Trebay noted that trousers and jacket skirts were longer than they had been in years. Fashion trends are constantly cycling, so it seems the wheel has turned once again.

Your Style Questions, Answered

Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question. Feel free to send your questions to her via email or Twitter. Questions will be edited for brevity and clarity.