After my trip to the market, I return with a vibrant green shopping bag filled with fresh produce. I have bunches of fragrant mint and basil, the first peas and tender broad beans from Italy, and even some courgettes. As the asparagus season comes to a close, I take advantage of the lower prices and plan to braise them in olive oil and vermouth, enjoying them on toast with the cooking juices. I also have a recipe in mind for the grated courgettes, turning them into delicious little cakes with parmesan and spring onion. And of course, the peas will make a perfect addition to a vivid green chutney to accompany crumbed and fried prawns.
For me, early summer represents the green days in the kitchen, before the arrival of vibrant tomatoes and juicy summer fruits. It’s a time to celebrate the freshness and vibrancy of new produce, a shopping basket filled with new green shoots, pods, and leaves. It’s a time for simple and uncomplicated cooking, focusing on pure and new flavors.
When the new broad beans arrive, both the Italian ones and the locally grown ones, I can’t resist cracking open their pods and enjoying the tiny beans raw. But if they’re a bit larger, I prefer to cook them for a few minutes in boiling water before tossing them with olive oil and chopped mint. They pair perfectly with a scoop of creamy ricotta.
Another delightful way to enjoy them is by cooking them with peas, asparagus, and waxy new garlic. The garlic adds a gentle and sweet flavor, and I like to infuse olive oil with its aroma before simmering the vegetables with a dry white vermouth or fruity white wine. The resulting braised vegetables are then piled onto toasted sourdough or ciabatta bread, soaking up the green-gold juices from the pan. Adding fresh herbs like mint, parsley, or basil to the warm vegetables brings a delightful fragrance to the dish.
To make this dish, warm olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Slice the courgettes and add them to the pan, followed by the asparagus cut into short lengths. Let the vegetables lightly brown and cook for about 8 minutes. Peel the garlic cloves and add them whole to the pan, then pour in the vermouth or white wine and 250ml of water. When the asparagus is almost tender, add the broad beans and peas and cook covered for a few more minutes. Finally, season with salt, black pepper, and chopped herbs, and serve the vegetables and their cooking liquor over toasted bread, finishing with a drizzle of olive oil. This recipe serves 4.
As the asparagus season nears its end, I like to explore different ways to enjoy it. Instead of the classic hollandaise sauce, I opt for a refreshing pesto made with herbs, garlic, and olive oil. The fragrance that fills the kitchen when pounding the herbs by hand is a real treat, but using a food processor also works well for a quick sauce.
To make this pesto, start by peeling and crushing a juicy clove of garlic with a pinch of salt. If making it by hand, pound the garlic with basil, mint, and coriander leaves to form a firm paste, then slowly introduce the olive oil. Season with lemon juice and a pinch of sugar if needed. Salt boiling water and add the trimmed asparagus, cooking for 6-8 minutes until desired tenderness. Serve the asparagus with the pesto as a dressing or dip. This recipe serves 2.
One of the most effortless and soothing summer dishes is creamy broad beans with dill. It pairs well with baked salmon, fried fish, lamb cutlets, or a roast leg of lamb. The gentle flavors come from the beans themselves, combined with herbs and cream. This recipe reminds me of a summer spent working in a restaurant in the West Country, where we received local beans and freshly picked dill from the herb garden every evening.
To make this dish, put a pot of salted water on to boil and cook the shelled broad beans for 4-5 minutes until tender. Drain them immediately under cold water to cool them down. Optional: pop the beans out of their skins. Melt butter in a saucepan, add finely chopped spring onions, and cook until soft. Add the beans and cream, bringing it to a boil. Stir in chopped dill fronds and simmer for a minute. Season with salt, black pepper, and a squeeze of lemon juice. This recipe serves 4.
Finally, I love making savory courgette cakes, particularly when having company in the kitchen. These cakes can be made with grated courgettes combined with parmesan and spring onions. For the sauce, I simplify a rouille by using jarred grilled red peppers, creating a vibrant and garlicky dip. While making the cakes, I enjoy chatting with a friend at the hob, frying and eating them fresh from the pan.
To make the courgette cakes, grate the courgettes and sprinkle them with salt, letting them sit for about half an hour. In a separate bowl, blend jarred red peppers, garlic, and breadcrumbs until a thick and slightly coarse puree forms. Slowly introduce olive oil to the mixture, adjusting the taste with lemon juice and a pinch of sugar if needed. Cook the grated courgettes with spring onions, parmesan, egg, and flour, shaping the mixture into small cakes. Fry them until fluffy and serve with the red pepper sauce. This recipe makes 8 small cakes, enough for 2 people.
These recipes celebrate the freshness and flavors of early summer. They remind us to embrace the vibrant green produce before the arrival of ripe tomatoes and juicy summer fruits.
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