Flying over the Andes during the final approach to Santiago is an awe-inspiring experience. South America’s orographic vertebrae span an area 18 times larger than the Alps, almost four times larger than the Rocky Mountains, and three-and-a-half times larger than the Himalayas. These majestic mountains stretch from Colombia and Venezuela in the north to Tierra del Fuego in the south, carving their way along the Pacific coast. Within this expansive range lies the Carretera Austral, a 1,240km-long road that winds through the breathtaking landscapes of Chilean Patagonia, including subtropical forests, grasslands, glaciers, lakes, and arid terrains. With its mostly unpaved roads, the Carretera Austral offers an ideal adventure destination for cyclists.
As a Spanish writer and creative director turned amateur athlete, I embarked on this cycling journey with my Trastevere-born travel companion, Flavio. Flavio, a forest conservationist and Instagram sensation (@flaviohikes), discovered a newfound passion for cycling during the lockdown in Italy, and together we set off to explore the unspoiled nature of Chile. Equipped with our bikes, we embarked on a journey that took us from Santiago to Puerto Montt, the gateway to the Carretera Austral. From there, we followed the Ruta 7, the official name of the Carretera Austral, through Chaitén, Coyhaique, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Cochrane, and ultimately Villa O’Higgins, our final destination on the Chile-Argentina border.
Although our original plan was a 16-day adventure, we had to shorten it to 12 days due to scheduling changes. Despite this, we managed to cover an average of 100km per day, accumulating a total elevation gain of 15,226m, according to our Garmin devices. Along the way, we faced various challenges, including heavy rain, scorching sun, and powerful wind gusts near Cerro Castillo. Despite these obstacles, we embraced the motto “rushing through Patagonia is a waste of time” and enjoyed our journey at a slightly faster pace.
While we longed for the company of fellow travelers, we encountered only a few along the Carretera Austral. This route can be completed by anyone with physical aptitude, determination, and, most importantly, time. We established a daily routine of starting our cycling before 10 am after two hours of preparation, pausing for a scenic lunch break, and reaching our destination in time for an early dinner. Accommodation options were limited, as we were committed to staying true to our biking journey. While we had initially hoped to combine camping with stays at remote eco-friendly hotels, we ended up staying in humble yet clean bed and breakfasts along the route. This allowed us to experience genuine hospitality and human connection, emphasizing that the quality of accommodation lies in the warmth of connections rather than luxurious amenities.
The Carretera Austral, only 30 years old, was originally built to prevent an Argentinian hegemony over the Andes and remains the main passage into Chilean Patagonia. As we rode further south, the wildness of the landscape intensified, with fewer signs of civilization and limited mobile reception. We experienced the remote beauty of Parque Pumalín, created by renowned conservationists Douglas Tompkins and his wife Kristine. The dense forests and stunning flora, including the nalca with its giant parsley-like leaves and the ancient Fitzroya cypresses, immersed us in a truly untouched natural environment.
Our journey became a testament to our commitment to cycling, nature, and the adventure itself. We forwent the option of luxury accommodations, tour operators, or shuttle services, opting instead for the authentic experience of the Carretera Austral. Each day brought new challenges that required focus, strength, and perseverance. Yet, amidst the physical demands, we also found a sense of belonging and connection with fellow travelers. From a Chilean family who shared their cooking stove with us to a young woman on a mission to walk from Mexico City to Ushuaia, we encountered like-minded individuals who embraced the outdoors and sought new adventures.
In the midst of our physical exertions, we also had moments of reflection and discovery. One such moment came after a steep dirt-road climb followed by a smooth paved downhill. The stunning mountain peaks and cascading waterfalls that surrounded us served as a reminder that life, like cycling, consists of uphill struggles that are always followed by rewarding descents. This journey through Chilean Patagonia not only challenged us physically but also provided us with moments of clarity and growth.
In conclusion, our cycling adventure along the Carretera Austral was a truly transformative experience. From flying over the Andes to navigating the rugged landscapes of Chilean Patagonia, we discovered the beauty of nature, the thrill of adventure, and the importance of human connection. This journey served as a reminder that true hospitality and fulfillment can be found in the simplest of accommodations and the warmest of connections. The Carretera Austral remains a testament to the remarkable landscapes of South America and the indomitable human spirit.
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