When people think of “Scandi” design, they often imagine a minimal and tasteful aesthetic. However, at Paris fashion week this season, designers are proving that there is more to the region than just understated separates.
Cecilie Bahnsen, a Danish designer, is gaining recognition for her ethereal and ultra-feminine designs. In her show on Wednesday, she showcased cloud-like dresses in white, black, red, and pink, mixing them with raw denim and knitwear.
This combination of effortless and party dresses hits the bullseye of what many young women desire in their wardrobe.
Backstage, Bahnsen, wearing one of her own creations, described the collection as a revival of old traditional techniques such as smocking, quilting, and embroidery, while maintaining an easy and casual feel. She emphasized that her Scandinavian heritage is evident in the knitted pieces, connecting her designs to real life.
Bahnsen has been showcasing her collection at Paris fashion week since 2020, but her brand dates back to 2015. Her light and airy volume, combined with a cake-shop color palette, have drawn comparisons to renowned designers Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard.
Celebrities like Anya Taylor-Joy and Sarah Paulson have been seen wearing Bahnsen’s creations. Her collaboration with sportswear brand Asics has further increased her visibility, especially with her sought-after designs featuring delicate 3D flowers. In this season’s collection, the collaboration continues with black sequinned trainers.
Beyond Bahnsen, other designers from the region are pushing the boundaries of Scandi fashion in Paris. Acne, known for its artistic approach to minimalism, showcased their designs on Wednesday. Heliot Emil, founded by Danish brothers Julius and Victor Juul, presented a gothic look inspired by Rick Owens. Hodakova takes a creative approach to upcycling, using old belts, bras, and leather. Designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson’s Paris show featured a model wearing a dress made from clingfilm.
Hodakova, along with Rave Review, represented the new wave of Swedish designers in a showroom organized by the Swedish Fashion Council in collaboration with Fashion East, the London-based style incubator led by Lulu Kennedy. This connection is expected to bring more attention to these brands, as stylists and buyers are invited to explore their collections.
According to Ida Petersson, the buying director of Browns Fashion, the exciting aspect of this Scandi wave is its variety. She explains that Scandinavian design is often associated with neutral dressing, but it is so much more diverse. She praises the sharp designs of Scandi brands, which are accessible in terms of price point, allowing a wider audience to appreciate them.
Despite the expanding definition of Scandi fashion, classic minimalism continues to be admired globally. The Row, designed by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, known for its minimalistic aesthetic influenced by Scandinavian design, showcased oversized tailoring and tasteful colors in their collection on Wednesday.
Scandinavian brands are also popular among fashion editors attending the shows. Petersson highlights Toteme and By Marlene Birger as favorites among editors. These brands offer a relatively affordable price range, making them accessible to a broader audience beyond the front row.
This showcases another quality associated with the Scandinavian region – a sense of fairness and inclusivity. Petersson emphasizes that Scandi design offers something for everyone’s taste, with designers delivering sharp designs at accessible price points. This inclusivity is a key aspect of the fashion from the region.
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