A brand new visitor center is set to open soon, offering an immersive experience into the history, legends, landscapes, and people of the captivating Co Mayo peninsula and its surrounding islands. Although it may appear compact on the map, upon arrival, visitors quickly realize that a mere four days is an insufficient amount of time to fully explore and appreciate this remarkable destination.
My initial encounter with the peninsula occurs from the comfort of a glamping pod situated on Claggan Island, also known as Oileán Chloigeann. Located in the serene waters of Blacksod Bay, this picturesque 150-acre island is accessed via a sandy causeway. Arriving in the late afternoon, I feel the stresses of the outside world dissipate as I am engulfed by the tranquility and silence, with only the occasional bird’s song or crowing of a rooster breaking the stillness.
Laurence Howard, the owner whose family has resided on the island since the 1890s, graciously gives me a tour of the premises. Adjacent to the glamping pods stands the old coastguard station, once manned until 1921. Though it had become a ruin, it was later restored by the Howard family and is now available as a holiday rental. The island is also a working farm, and a short walk to the other side unveils breathtaking cliffs and a sea cave where otters and seals can often be spotted. Looking south, one can catch a glimpse of Achill Island and a distant lighthouse.
The following morning, I embark on a drive along the bay to explore the Mullet Peninsula alongside Fergus Sweeney, a knowledgeable filmmaker and tour guide of Blacksod Lighthouse. Fergus’s family has been associated with the lighthouse since his grandfather, Ted Sweeney, assumed the role of attendant in 1933.
Stretching approximately 25km in length and narrowing to a mere 300m at Elly Bay, the Mullet Peninsula offers a rich tapestry of experiences. Fergus enlightens me about the archaeological wonders dating back to the 5th century, mythical tales, historical lighthouses, and captivating shipwrecks that dot the area. As a Gaeltacht, the peninsula’s place name signs are proudly in Irish.
During our journey, we pause at Cross Abbey, where we wander through tall grass and past ancient tombstones. Established circa 1200 AD, the abbey overlooks Inishglora island, reputedly founded by St Brendan the Navigator. From the graveyard, there are enticing walks along the long beach and around Cross Lough.
Continuing our trip south, we encounter a Napoleonic-era watchtower at Glosh after passing the golden sands of Elly Beach. At Fál Mór, we venture down a small, rocky road to visit St Deirbhile’s Church and Grave, a serene and peaceful site. The landscape, predominantly flat and green, is peppered with houses and farms, devoid of trees and hills, showcasing unobstructed panoramic views that stretch for miles. It contrasts with the towering peaks of Slievemore and Croaghaun mountains on Achill Island, visible across the water.
“In times when you seek refuge, places like this allow you to escape and detach. The only distractions are the soothing sounds of birdsong and the gentle mooing of cattle,” muses Fergus. “I come here to clear my mind and contemplate.”
The small two-storey square Blacksod Lighthouse, constructed in 1865 and powered by electricity since 1969, emanates a fixed light and serves as a refueling center for search and rescue helicopters. A tour provides insight into its history and offers panoramic views from the balcony.
From the Blacksod pier, I join the Blacksod Sea Safari for an unforgettable rib tour to the Inishkea islands. These deserted islands were abandoned by inhabitants in the 1930s, leaving behind a haunting landscape dotted with remnants of cottages. Inishkea North boasts sheep, while a group of curious cows observe our arrival on Inishkea South. Some houses are undergoing restoration, and the islands attract seasonal visits from Arctic terns who breed there, as well as the majestic Atlantic grey seals.
Throughout my time on the Mullet Peninsula, I uncover idyllic beaches that border Blacksod Bay alongside more rugged sands on the Atlantic side, catering to surfing and kitesurfing enthusiasts. At the northern tip, visitors can admire the awe-inspiring blowhole at Dún na mBó or follow the 5km looped walk at Ceann Iorrais (Erris Head), offering cliffs that have withstood centuries of relentless Atlantic storms. Tales of the area’s whaling history and the Children of Lir, who supposedly spent 300 years on Inishglora, add a mythical element to the voyage.
Opening in August, the eagerly anticipated Solas visitor center in Eachléim (Aghleam) village will provide a captivating glimpse into the peninsula’s storied past. The newly expanded exhibition galleries, housed within the original Ionad Deirbhile center, will delve into the history of the peninsula and its islands, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in tales of its people, cultural heritage, and agricultural livelihood from the Neolithic era to modern times. The center will also showcase the area’s vibrant Irish language and literary traditions, as well as its rich artistic and musical heritage.
The stories of emigration from the peninsula to North America in the late 1800s and to England for potato picking work will also be sensitively presented, alongside exhibits highlighting the environment, geology, biodiversity, and marine ecosystems, including thriving seal colonies and the presence of bottlenose dolphins and whales. The center will feature a unique display centered around a currach, an Irish traditional boat, and a striking installation composed of sections of a lighthouse lens. As the Irish word for light, Solas will illuminate the journey of the peninsula’s four lighthouses: Blacksod, Broadhaven, Eagle Rock, and Blackrock.
The tales surrounding Blacksod Lighthouse and Solas emphasize the resilience and unity of this remote community as they faced the unforgiving elements and challenges such as emigration. Drawing sustenance from the land, braving the treacherous sea, crafting stories, creating art, composing music, and supporting one another, they have forged a way of life unique to this region.
While some of the place names bear somber connotations, such as Blacksod (An Fód Dubh), Duvillaun (Dubh Oileán), meaning black island, and Blackrock (An Túr), the overall ambiance of this area is radiant and inviting. Solas promises to illuminate this hidden gem, shedding light on the lesser-known aspects of County Mayo, our third-largest county, and the captivating west coast of Ireland.
Travelers must not miss the Blacksod Sea Safari to the Inishkea islands, which offers a comprehensive four and a half-hour experience including leisurely walks and a delightful picnic. Additional two-hour tours to the awe-inspiring Croaghaun Cliffs on Achill Island, as well as full and half-day sea excursions, are also available.
Plan a visit to the Solas visitor center in Eachléim this summer to fully immerse yourself in the wonders of this charming peninsula. Accommodation options include Claggan Island, offering glamping pods from €120 per night (minimum two nights), and the Talbot Hotel Belmullet, providing comfortable rooms starting from €120 per night.
To gain a deeper understanding of the area’s maritime history, a guided tour of Blacksod Lighthouse is highly recommended. The tours, priced at €7 per person, last approximately 30 minutes, and advanced booking is advisable.
Whether embarking on a road trip across Ireland, exploring the country’s countless scenic byways and motorways, or pursuing a picture-perfect adventure overseas, proper planning and guidance are essential. Be sure to check out my other road trip recommendations, including Daniella Moyles’ ultimate American road trip and a compilation of nine of the world’s most breathtaking drives. Additionally, discover the Ceide Coast, an extraordinary and often overlooked road trip in Ireland that promises stunning vistas and unforgettable moments.
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