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Mark C O’Flaherty was inspired to write his new book, Narrative Thread, after a conversation with editor and gallerist Carla Sozzani. Sozzani owns a collection of couture pieces by her close friend and collaborator Azzedine Alaïa. O’Flaherty, a journalist, photographer, and regular HTSI contributor, began to contemplate the reasons behind keeping clothes. Why do we keep some items and not others? How do these choices define us? Why do we sometimes destroy things while preserving others?
Through a series of interviews, along with photoshoots showcasing cherished garments, O’Flaherty’s book offers an intimate look at the various reasons people hold onto certain items of clothing. “When families and lovers are involved, some items were incredibly emotional,” states O’Flaherty. “There were individuals I spoke to who were deeply connected to certain designers and garments, and the bond was profound.”
Charlie Casely-Hayford, founder of menswear label Casely-Hayford, shares his personal experience with holding onto garments in the family archive. The archive is not just a collection of their work; it represents one of the few pure connections Charlie has with his late father, Sir Joe. “Every season, I delve into the archive to communicate with him,” he tells O’Flaherty.
John Matheson, archivist and founder of the @McQueen_vault Instagram account, reveals how his fascination with Alexander McQueen’s work led him to collect thousands of pieces, ranging from iconic denim “bumsters” to rare blazers. Matheson’s collection represents his admiration for the designer’s creative process and attention to detail. “When you see a real person creating real things, it’s hard to find connections like that in today’s world,” he says.
But why do we collect in the first place? Some appreciate objects for their timeless beauty, like Sozzani’s unworn Manolo Blahnik shoes, treated like artwork. Others collect for the emotional weight behind them. For Claire Wilcox, preserving her father’s woollen jumpers is a way to hold onto his memory. “It reassures me that he was once here and still is, on some level,” she confides.
According to Alexander Fury, an FT menswear critic, collecting also encompasses a caretaking aspect. His collection of runway pieces carries nostalgia as it reflects the work of designers he fell in love with as a child. But it is also about the value of the garments themselves, which becomes increasingly rare in today’s fashion industry.
Before online shopping and social media, the desire for clothing developed in a more nuanced way. However, the rise of resale platforms has transformed archival menswear pieces into status symbols and lucrative business opportunities. While items such as a Raf Simons 2001 camouflage bomber or a pair of Nike Air Yeezys now fetch significant sums, collectors like Fury and Matheson find deeper value in their archives. It represents their personal history, the inspiration they found, and the blood, sweat, and tears of the designers. They hope that their collections will continue to be important to future generations.
Mark C O’Flaherty’s Narrative Thread: Conversations on Fashion Collections, published by Bloomsbury, offers a captivating exploration of the reasons behind our clothing collections. From emotional connections to the appreciation of artistry, this book sheds light on the significance of preserving fashion history. Grab a copy now for £24.99.
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