To reach Glyn Cywarch, an imposing Jacobean house in Gwynedd, one can either drive – it’s approximately a five-hour trip by car from London – or take a more leisurely route by train. The train journey requires multiple changes but offers passengers stunning views of the ancient landscape, with mountainous and craggy terrain on one side and pristine shoreline on the other. Visitors can explore the nearby Harlech Castle, built in the late 13th century, which played a significant role in Welsh history. The journey continues along picturesque coastline, passing the famous Italianate village of Portmeirion. The final stop is Tygwyn, a tiny platform where passengers must notify the driver to halt the train.
At Glyn Cywarch, one can encounter Amanda Harlech, a prominent creative consultant, stylist, writer, and curator. She is known for her close collaboration with renowned designer Karl Lagerfeld, having worked together at Chanel and later at Fendi. Amanda is a striking figure with raven hair and piercing eyes. She exudes an air of chic elegance, even wearing minimal makeup in a navy cotton dress. Amanda greets visitors warmly, as if they have just completed a grand adventure. She leads them to the back entrance of the house, which she and her daughter Tallulah have spent six years renovating.
Glyn Cywarch, meaning the Valley of Hemp in Welsh, was once an estate that produced rope for ships at the nearby trading port of Porthmadog. The current house, built in 1616, belonged to the Wynn family and is described as an ambitious Renaissance-style gentry house. The walls are thick, the wooden beams massive, and the fireplaces grand. The house is situated within the Snowdonia National Park, surrounded by untouched panoramic views, including the distant peaks of the mountains and lush ancient woodland.
The house, now available for rent, boasts 11 bedrooms and can accommodate up to 18 people. It features spacious living rooms, a large kitchen, and a Jacobean dining hall. Glyn Cywarch was part of the Harlech family’s inheritance and holds nostalgic memories for Amanda and Tallulah, who spent six months per year there during their childhood. The family would migrate from their home in Shropshire, bringing along animals and friends. The summers at Glyn Cywarch were filled with adventures in the woodlands and visits from famous photographers and supermodels.
However, in later years, the house fell into disrepair and became a mausoleum. After Francis Ormsby-Gore, the 6th Baron Harlech and Amanda’s former husband, passed away, the family discovered the house filled with family belongings and in desperate need of restoration. Facing substantial inheritance taxes, the family decided to sell some of their treasures to fund the renovation and preservation of Glyn Cywarch. The restoration process was challenging, but the end result is a magnificent house that seamlessly blends Jacobean aesthetics with modern materials.
Amanda and Tallulah, sitting together in the house’s kitchen, reflect on their journey and the transformation of Glyn Cywarch. They have successfully revived the house’s timeless beauty while infusing it with their own austere style. The decorative scheme is described as Jacobean with a contemporary twist, using pale walls and lacquered black kitchen joinery. The interiors exude a sense of elegance and simplicity, with monochromatic colors and large slate tiles. The overall ambiance replicates the natural shades of chalk, parchment, and wood smoke. Despite the challenges, Amanda and Tallulah have truly made Glyn Cywarch a captivating retreat immersed in the allure of North Wales.
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