Tealby: A Village Rich in History and Natural Beauty
Tealby, a village nestled in the Lincolnshire Wolds, has a history that spans over 1,600 years. Its name, derived from the Teifali people, is an intriguing hint at its ancient origins. The Teifali tribe, hailing from the Carpathian mountains in eastern Germany, seems an odd connection to the east Midlands. However, evidence suggests that the Equites Taifali, a Roman cavalry unit, was stationed here in the late fourth century to defend nearby Lindum (Lincoln) and never left. The Vikings later added the Old Danish “-by” (“farmstead” or “village”) to the name, as they settled in the area.
Tealby, with its population of 600 people, is considered one of the most picturesque villages in the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It clings to the western edge of the wolds, offering breathtaking views of the River Rase below. The village is dotted with 27 listed buildings, many of which were once smithies or dressmakers’ workshops. These buildings, often constructed from Tealby limestone, display a unique honey-marmalade hue. One notable exception is the Kings Head pub, a 14th-century inn made of whitewashed rubble and thatch.
Starting my walk from the Kings Head, I wind through the village, passing by charming cottages and the Vintage Tearooms. I stroll along a lane called The Smooting, a Danish relic that adds another layer of history to Tealby. The village boasts a volunteer-run shop that sells anything from tins and toiletries to tourist information. The highlight for me is the Choowee Cookie Company, offering delectable treats made by a local baker. Apparently, they are quite popular among the villagers.
Continuing my journey, I head northward, joining the Viking Way. This long-distance trail covers 147 miles of Danelaw land from the Humber to Rutland. The path leads me through rolling hills, with one of my first stops being Risby. This ancient settlement is home to the lustrous Lincoln longwool sheep, a rare breed with only 700 breeding ewes left in Britain. I visit the shop of Ian and Louise Fairburn, passionate farmers who keep and display these remarkable sheep. They also sell wool, beeswax candles, and locally made ice-cream.
Leaving Risby, I veer west, skirting the woods and descending to Claxby, another former Viking settlement. As I continue, I come across a herd of red deer, which are farmed in the valley. They watch me with curiosity as I cross their field. Nearby, I spot the ghostly remains of a shrunken medieval village, serving as a reminder of Lincolnshire’s rich history.
Moving on, I reach All Saints church in Walesby, locally known as the ramblers’ church. This 12th-century church stands high on a hill, providing stunning views of Lincoln cathedral in the distance. Inside, a stained-glass window featuring knapsack-toting ramblers tells a unique story.
As I return to Tealby, I have the option to complete a four-mile loop or continue on a nine-mile bow-tie-shaped route. This path takes me through Normanby, a tiny and windswept village, before leading me back to Claxby. I follow a quiet lane south and then head up alongside the woods once more, eventually reaching the Viking Way. I deviate from the same trail by taking a different route that leads me back to Tealby through a stone stile. Along the way, I encounter the Lincoln longwools again, grazing peacefully in the fields.
The Kings Head, Tealby’s oldest thatched pub, is a must-visit destination. Since 1367, this pub has been charming locals and travelers alike. Recently, it has regained its status as a foodie haven, serving dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. From homemade pies to blade of Lincolnshire beef, the menu offers a delightful culinary experience. The pub’s modern-traditional decor, with low ceilings and tartan-carpeted floors, creates a cozy ambiance. Outside, a spacious beer garden awaits.
For those looking to stay in Tealby, Clematis Cottage offers a charming accommodation option in the heart of the village. If traveling with a group, the Viking Centre in Claxby provides hostel-style accommodation for up to 20 people.
Experience the rich history and natural beauty of Tealby as you embark on this unforgettable journey.
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