Italy’s third-largest city, known for its world-famous pizza, has much more to offer than just delicious dough and red sauce. Naples is home to a diverse culinary scene, with trattorias, osterias, and ristoranti serving up traditional Neapolitan recipes and unique dishes that showcase the region’s abundant produce and livestock.
One hidden gem is Osteria della Mattonella, located in the Quartieri Spagnoli district. This family-run restaurant exudes history and charm, with 18th-century wall tiles and an open kitchen. They serve up classic Neapolitan dishes such as fried eggplant, zucchini, and rice balls, as well as hearty soups and pastas with Neapolitan ragù. Seafood lovers will also delight in their tender anchovies and cod in a flavorful tomato, caper, and olive sauce. For dessert, try the baba au rhum, a sweet treat adopted from Poland in the 18th century. A three-course meal at Osteria della Mattonella costs around 25 euros per person.
For a taste of traditional Neapolitan cucina povera, head to Tripperia O’Russ. This longstanding tripe restaurant offers dishes made from various animal entrails, including pigs’ feet, veal snout, and bovine stomachs. The restaurant, which started as a pushcart business in 1945, is frequented by locals from all walks of life. They serve up simple soups, pastas, and stews loaded with slow-cooked innards. A popular choice is the Tris Trippa sampler, featuring three different preparations of tripe. Tripperia O’Russ is located near the city’s botanical gardens and offers a no-frills dining experience. They do not serve desserts, but you can enjoy a refreshing Peroni beer to complement your meal.
La Locanda Gesù Vecchio is a cozy spot located in Naples’s historic center, offering a mix of traditional and modern dishes. Their menu features classics like eggplant parmigiana and pasta with potatoes and provolone cheese. The mozzarella in carrozza is a must-try dish, with melted mozzarella on grilled bread. Another standout is the crispy fried paccheri, a beloved Neapolitan noodle filled with tomato sauce, beef, pork, raisins, pine nuts, and mozzarella. For a hearty main course, try the rabbit cacciatore. La Locanda Gesù Vecchio also offers gluten-free options and a selection of craft beers. A three-course meal at this four-year-old restaurant costs around 30 euros per person.
Seafront Pasta Bar offers a minimalist yet flavorful dining experience overlooking the grand square of Piazza Municipio. Their signature dish is ziti with Genovese sauce, a Naples specialty made from slow-cooked onions, olive oil, and tender slivers of beef. Seafront Pasta Bar also sells dry pasta made at their factory in Gragnano, a town known for its pasta-making traditions. Other delicious noodle creations include spaghetti alle vongole, buttery noodles with sweet clams and charred garlic, and bucatini with a tomato sauce inspired by the nearby island of Ischia and topped with tender shredded rabbit. For dessert, try the unique “pastamisù,” a tiramisù with coffee-soaked pasta shards. Expect to pay around 60 to 70 euros for two pastas and dessert.
If you’re looking for a more upscale dining experience, Sustanza is the perfect choice. This hidden gem is located in the Galleria Principe di Napoli and offers intricate dishes made with southern Italian and Mediterranean ingredients. The chef, Marco Ambrosino, previously worked at the renowned 28 Posti in Milan. Sustanza serves artful creations like artichoke hearts filled with mountain truffle cream and succulent mutton in a light jus and fermented butter sauce. Dessert options include an herbaceous fig-leaf sorbet in laurel oil. After dinner, enjoy a nightcap at the ground-floor lounge and try the Strega del Vesuvio cocktail, a tangy and smoky creation made with Scotch, gin, coffee liqueur, and a tomato cordial crafted from tomatoes grown on Vesuvio’s slopes.
Next time you visit Naples, venture beyond the crowded pizzerias and explore these unique and creative culinary addresses. From traditional Neapolitan dishes to innovative creations, these eateries offer a diverse range of flavors that celebrate the rich culinary heritage of this vibrant city. Buon appetito!
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