In my childhood days in Honolulu, there was only one Icee that truly captured my heart. It was made by Kon Ping Young, affectionately known as Mr. Young, at the Crack Seed Store. The delightful concoction consisted of a strawberry base, with the vibrant slush swirling into the cup. But Mr. Young’s mastery didn’t stop there. Halfway through, he would pause the machine and add the flavorful liquid skimmed from a jar of li hing mui – a local snack of preserved plums soaked in a blend of sugar and licorice. To make it even more special, he would sneak in a whole plum, burying it deep within the slush. When I discovered it, the shriveled plum would explode with an intensely tangy taste, creating a unique sensation that enveloped me entirely – a sweet-sour-salt neutron star.
Neale Asato, too, adored the li hing Icee. In fact, it served as the inspiration for his famous li hing float, a fusion of strawberry sherbet, vanilla ice cream, and hidden layers of li hing sauce. Asato Family Shop, situated in downtown Honolulu, witnessed the immense popularity of this delicious creation. Intriguingly, I first learned about Asato and his sherbet in 2018 when a hushed whisper reached my ears, urging me never to disclose this secret. At that time, Asato crafted his sherbet in his home kitchen and sold it online through subscriptions as a side venture while working at a pizzeria. Presently, he has a proper brick-and-mortar store close to the Pali Highway, which operates merely two days a week, along with a mobile scoop truck in Waikiki. The shop offers a rotating array of flavors, including a nostalgic homage to another local delicacy – gummy bears encrusted with powdered pickled lemon peel, as well as Green River, a Prohibition-era lime soft drink from Iowa that became a staple in Hawaiian drive-ins.
Sherbet possesses a lushness that surpasses sorbet and a ethereal quality unmatched by ice cream. Asato’s take on sherbet holds a special place in the hearts of people in Hawaii, reminiscent of guri-guri, a nearly century-old specialty from Tasaka Guri-Guri on Maui. The shop, a cash-only establishment, was founded in the early 20th century by Jokichi and Rise Tasaka, Japanese immigrants. Their son, Gunji, purportedly invented what was initially known as goodie-goodie (say it quickly) in the 1920s.
Both Asato’s and Tasaka’s recipes remain top-secret, creating an irresistible curiosity among food enthusiasts. However, Asato generously shared a homemade version that requires no ice cream maker. The process involves boiling strawberry soda (microwave-friendly), adding gelatin as a stabilizer, stirring in condensed milk, and a touch of vanilla extract. After freezing the mixture into a slushy state, whisk it at high speed until it expands into a pink cloud. Incorporate more strawberry soda (and optionally, evaporated milk to balance the sweetness, as well as li hing sauce for a puckering finale) before freezing once more. Finally, grab an ice cream scoop and brace yourself for a delightful shiver-inducing experience.
In summary, the journey from Mr. Young’s Crack Seed Store to Asato’s Family Shop unfolds a tale of lusciousness, creativity, and nostalgia tied to the flavors of Hawaii. Each unique creation, whether it be the li hing Icee or the li hing float, sparks joy and leaves an indelible mark on the taste buds of those fortunate enough to savor them.
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