Driving along the road to Veiholmen, I am met with an empty stretch of road, devoid of any other vehicles. As I pass by the majestic fjords and encounter moose and deer that are almost as big as moose themselves, I can understand why legends of trolls have gained popularity in this region of Norway.
If you look at a map of Veiholmen, you can see that it is a village spread across a long and winding strip of land, reaching out into the vast North Sea. It is a part of the Smøla archipelago, which consists of over 5,800 islands. I arrive at Veiholmen, the northernmost part of Smøla, via a surreal 10km causeway that takes me on a journey across a series of rollercoaster-like bridges, hopping from one small island to another. Veiholmen is believed to be the island referred to as Thule in ancient times, a symbol of remoteness. Additionally, it boasts one of the highest concentrations of white-tailed sea eagles in the world. If plans for a new hotel in this remote location come to fruition, Veiholmen could become even more extraordinary.
Upon arriving at Veiholmen at the end of the bridge network, it is already nighttime. However, the spring sky casts a luminous glow, illuminating the clapboard houses with a milk-white radiance. Not a soul is in sight. It is a thrillingly remote experience, but I am in the capable hands of Up Norway, a luxury travel company that connects tourists with local experts. Although I am alone on the road, I have the assurance of 24-hour contact through their app.
Veiholmen, once one of Norway’s largest fishing villages, now boasts a permanent population of only 300 people. The island is flat, with pools of water reflecting silver-blue hues against the granite and ancient-gold lichen. Each house is painted in vibrant rust red, white, or mustard yellow, providing a splash of color during the brief winter daylight.
There is an undeniable whimsy to this island. One day, I turn a corner and stumble upon a resident hosting a tea party for her chickens, complete with fine china. Apparently, this is a regular occurrence. In Veiholmen, residents leave their keys in the lock when they are away, so that neighbors can address any issues that arise. During parties, the locals often break into the island’s song, which never fails to bring tears to the eyes. The chorus goes, “Hardly drawn on any map because the islets are so small. But leaves a mark on the heart of any person with eyes to see.” However, upon my arrival, only one building is illuminated: the OlsenNaustet boathouse, run by Line Nicolaysen and her sister Hilde Røinås, the representatives of Up Norway in this enchanting place. Despite not being native to Veiholmen, they have become an integral part of village life, much like the daffodils in their Wellington boots that serve as makeshift window boxes.
Line proceeds to tell me the story of how she and her sister came to establish this boathouse restaurant. She points across the narrow channel to a lone, bone-white building on stilts called “The Swan,” which was formerly a fish-processing plant. The family purchased it online, inspired by a television program about buying property in remote locations. When their father visited for the first time, he humorously wore a piece of paper on his chest that read, “I’m the idiot from the south who bought the building on the molo.” That trip ended with their acquisition of the boathouse where we currently sit. Now, they are affectionately known as “the molo sisters.”
As they renovated the boathouse, they slept in the eaves above the centuries-old beams, listening to the crashing weather outside. Today, the boathouse features plate-glass windows that offer views of the sea, where black-and-white eider birds create mesmerizing patterns in the channel. Line and her sister managed to convince chef Olav Kåre Jørgensen from the renowned seafood restaurant Smia in Kristiansund to oversee the restaurant during the season (May to September). We enjoy drinks made with Nine Sisters Ocean gin from Fedje, accompanied by delicious traditional fish balls and tapas dishes prepared with a touch of magic in their tiny kitchen. White-tailed sea eagles are a common sight, with their wingspans reaching up to 2.45 meters, seemingly as wide as the lighthouse itself.
Upon their arrival, the sisters discovered that Veiholmen had only one run-down hotel (which has since been sold and renovated), so they purchased three additional houses scattered throughout the village. These houses were transformed into Olsens Pensjonat, where guests can rent the entire house or individual rooms. The interiors feature white-painted walls, exposed beams, Scandinavian-style kitchens, and cozy sitting rooms with stunning views, binoculars, sheepskins, and wood-burning stoves.
Three years ago, the sisters obtained permission to build a futuristic hotel, predominantly made of glass, that would be nestled behind the facade of “The Swan.” If their dream becomes a reality, this hotel will undoubtedly be one of the most extraordinary in the world. The design work is being carried out by Tormod Amundsen of Biotope Architecture, renowned for his modernist cabins in remote locations ranging from Iceland to the Galápagos Islands. Although they are still searching for investors, the sisters hope to open the Molo Hotel in June 2025. The hotel will feature saunas and rooms situated almost at the water’s edge, allowing guests to experience the crashing waves during stormy weather on either side of “The Swan.”
The project has already received approval, and a recent survey conducted by the sisters revealed that 84% of locals are in favor of the hotel. Jann Kåre Pettersen, a fisherman who has spent more than 50 years in Veiholmen, shares his support for the project from his small boat in the harbor. He believes that the success of the hotel would create jobs and contribute to the growth of Veiholmen’s population. Although the village itself is quiet, with only a few boats bobbing in the harbor, the people who remain in Veiholmen have a deep attachment to the island and a shared commitment to communal work.
Veiholmen also has a younger population, including 23-year-old Henrik Holberg, who leads sea eagle-spotting trips on his pristine RIB. This activity is among the many experiences suggested by Up Norway and its local partners. Henrik explains that most young people in Veiholmen reside on a neighboring fragment, where the village’s most frequently open pub is situated. He cheerfully mentions that the pub opens on weekends year-round as he maneuvers the boat through the lively sea outside of the breakwater barrier.
We find a sheltered spot between two islets, where a squat lighthouse stands with an enormous nest perched on one side of the chimney pot. White-tailed sea eagles are visible in every direction. We observe as one of these majestic creatures gracefully glides in circles. Their wingspans can reach up to 2.45 meters, appearing as vast as the lighthouse when in flight.
Kurt Sivertsen, a silver-haired guide who offers tours of the village, grows nostalgic while reminiscing about his childhood in Veiholmen. He recalls the irony of being surrounded by water on all sides but lacking running water in their homes. His mother used to send him with buckets on a yoke to collect freshwater from a well. He shares an anecdote about the worst storm the island experienced in 1938, before he was born. A man was swept away by the storm, but he managed to survive by clinging onto a flagpole that still stands a few meters from the sea. These stories and artifacts can be explored in the local museum.
Overall, Veiholmen offers a unique and remote experience in the heart of Norway. Its charm lies in the quaint village, the breathtaking natural surroundings, and the warm embrace of the locals. With upcoming plans for a remarkable hotel, Veiholmen has the potential to become an even more extraordinary destination.
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