Discover Cairo’s Necropolis: A Living Symbol of History and Modernity
Spread over nearly 7km (4 miles), Cairo’s Necropolis is an expansive and vibrant district teeming with tombs, mausoleums, mosques, and courtyards. Known as the City of the Dead, it is a place where memories of the departed, historical eras, and living families intertwine. Dating back to the seventh century, this necropolis exists in a remarkable juxtaposition with modernity, with billboards, construction, and heavy traffic standing alongside silent tombs adorned with intricate mosaics, ancient wooden doors, and sacred spaces for mourning. Here lie not only ancient kings and dignitaries, but also politicians, celebrities, and residents who passed away in recent decades. However, their eternal rest is now under threat.
In 2020, authorities initiated the demolition of parts of the city to make way for an expressway, raising concerns about further destruction in the future. Hussein Omar, a resident whose family has been buried in the Necropolis for multiple generations, reveals the struggle his family faces. They have been locked in a deadlock with the state regarding their rights to visit the graves, but the conflict has escalated with the graves themselves now at risk of removal. It seems that the Egyptian state aims not only to control histories but also deliberately erase them, eroding people’s claims to valuable historic properties.
This clash between the state and its citizens symbolizes the wider challenges faced by Cairo as it undergoes a rapid transformation. The construction of a “new Cairo” has become a notable endeavor, exemplified by the establishment of a new administrative capital to the east of the city. This new capital hosts a presidential palace, government buildings, and residences, with the key functions of the Egyptian state and diplomatic community relocating there. Drawing inspiration from Egypt’s ancient past, the new capital exudes a pharaonic aesthetic, featuring a crystal pyramid and motifs reminiscent of Egyptian gods. This remodeling of Cairo extends beyond the new capital, encompassing new neighborhoods, highways, and gated communities that cater to the burgeoning middle-class population. The new districts, with names like “Beverly Hills” and “Hyde Park,” exhibit a fusion of Dubai and Miami styles, boasting sleek glass constructions and meticulously manicured lawns.
From an urban planner’s perspective, this expansion may appear impressive, considering the strain caused by Cairo’s dense population concentrated in downtown and old Cairo along the Nile river. However, this progression comes at the expense of history, green spaces, and people’s rights to land and memories. The soul of the city seems to be shifting towards these outskirts, leaving places like the City of the Dead as inconvenient obstacles to the construction of highways. What were once revered repositories of heritage and sacred burial grounds have become marginalized and threatened.
A Remodeling Effort With Political Undertones
This push towards the future is not merely an earnest endeavor but also a deliberate rejection of the past, particularly the remnants of the 2011 revolution. Tahrir Square, once the vibrant epicenter of demonstrations, has been emptied of its people and infused with concrete and granite, surrounded by ancient artifacts for the sake of security. Hussein identifies a pharaonic futurist aesthetic in these changes, transforming public spaces into sterile, easily controlled environments to prevent nostalgia and suppress a more pluralistic liberal age. This cautious movement seeks to invent a selective national identity, unwaveringly dictated by the state while effacing the genuine lineage and emotional ties of the people.
The castration of history not only carries profound ecological and historical consequences but also comes at a high financial cost. These grand projects are executed despite Egypt’s struggling economy, largely fueled by an accumulation of debt to fund what critics call unnecessary and extravagant ventures. The vanity behind such reinvention of a national narrative is most transparent in another colossal city being erected in Saudi Arabia’s northwest: Neom. Serving as a rebranding of Saudi Arabia, Neom is portrayed as a futuristic utopia with a distinct emphasis on innovation, energy efficiency, and sustainability. With its unparalleled dimensions and features like an artificial moon, managed climate, and carefully preserved flora and fauna, Neom is meant to challenge traditional city designs. Its development signals a costly attempt to reposition Saudi Arabia as a socially progressive country under new management, while the realities of human rights abuses and repression remain unchanged.
The distinguishing factor between Gulf projects like Neom and those in Egypt is the financial backing provided by affluent governments. Without substantial subsidies, repressive policies can only extend so far. Following weeks of rare public protests, the demolitions in Cairo’s City of the Dead have been temporarily halted. However, the limited access and ongoing threats indicate that this pause may be short-lived. The act of disturbing centuries-old tombs and the bodies of the deceased is a visceral and provocative move. In their attempt to erase the ghosts of the past, the authorities may inadvertently uncover a profound resistance.
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