During my trip to Japan, I had the pleasure of meeting David Hulme, a dedicated wasabi grower. It was through him that I had my first ever taste of fresh wasabi, which completely changed my perception of this beloved condiment. As we ventured through his lush wasabi patches in Okutama, I discovered that fresh wasabi doesn’t possess the vibrant green hue that I had become accustomed to. To my surprise, it turns out that the wasabi commonly served in restaurants is actually horseradish masquerading as the real thing.
David Hulme, originally from Australia, abandoned his journalism career in Tokyo over a decade ago to pursue his passion for cultivating wasabi. Now, he tends to several wasabi patches nestled alongside the streams that flow through Japan’s mountainous regions. During my recent visit, Hulme graciously gave me a tour of his wasabi patches, enlightening me about the intricacies of this cherished vegetable.
We trekked up a mountain alongside a babbling stream, and there, I witnessed rows of vibrant green plants. Hulme explained that wasabi thrives in the mineral-rich water of mountain river valleys. It requires a continuous supply of oxygen, shade, and mild temperatures throughout its eighteen-month lifespan. Every aspect of the cultivation process is carefully monitored and documented by Hulme, who diligently records water levels and other variables in his massive spreadsheet. Amongst the rocky riverbed, heart-shaped leaves sprouted from the ground, leaving me curious about which part of the plant would eventually become the famed green paste.
To my astonishment, Hulme plucked a mature plant from the wet ground and liberated its fine roots, exposing a pale-green stem as he discarded the leaves. He explained that unlike other plants such as horseradish and ginger, where the roots are consumed, the stem of the wasabi is what becomes the paste. The next step was to grate the stem and finally taste it.
As Hulme expertly grated the wasabi, the paste began to accumulate on the grater. However, I couldn’t help but notice that it lacked the vibrant green hue I was accustomed to. Hulme informed me that what I had previously considered wasabi was likely a mixture of horseradish, mustard, and green dye. Although there might be a small amount of genuine wasabi powder in the paste, the majority is actually horseradish.
One of the reasons for this substitution, Hulme explained, is that real wasabi quickly loses its flavor. He allowed me to experience this firsthand by having me sample the freshly grated wasabi at different intervals. Initially, the flavor was at its peak after a few minutes, resulting in a tingling sensation in my nostrils and a tear-inducing spice. Gradually, the spice mellowed out, with the flavor becoming more mild after about 25 minutes. Hulme highlighted the challenge faced by restaurants in serving fresh wasabi, as it must be grated just moments before serving to provide the best flavor.
However, it’s not just the perishability of wasabi that makes it a rare find. The New York Times reported that fewer people are growing wasabi due to factors like climate change and rising temperatures. Wasabi requires moderate temperatures, around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, to flourish. Consequently, wasabi production in Japan has declined by 55% in the past decade, leading to its current premium price. As I savored another bite of the fresh wasabi, I couldn’t help but appreciate its unique ability to clear my sinuses, stimulate my tear ducts, and leave my taste buds tingling. It truly was a taste that I would be hard-pressed to encounter again in the near future.
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