The Best Way to Travel in Sudan: Riding the Roof of the Train for Three Days

Until the late 1960s, railway stations held a captivating allure reminiscent of film sets. Mysterious clouds of steam surrounded hurried figures in hats, their faces blackened by the coal. Whistles blew, doors slammed, and then there was a dramatic pause followed by the deep, urgent grunt of the locomotive. The overwhelming smell, noise, and power left a lasting impression. As a child, I was lifted up to catch a glimpse of the famous giants like The Flying Scotsman and Mallard, and I still remember the feeling of awe. My family would proudly remark, “Your grandfather was a stationmaster, and your great-grandfather drove a stagecoach.” It was clear that railways and travel ran in our blood.

For me, there has never been any doubt about it – rail travel is the best. From the gritty steam engines of my childhood to the sleek, air-conditioned, high-speed trains of today, I love them all. In Sudan, I embarked on a three-day journey from Khartoum to Wau, riding on the carriage roof with a group of spear-wielding Dinka youths. In Shanghai, I experienced the breathtaking speed of the bullet train. In Germany, I indulged in extraordinary cuisine multiple times, but unfortunately also fell victim to a robbery. I even borrowed someone else’s documents to cross a border into Djibouti, although I was never caught or arrested.

Trains surpass planes and cars in my eyes. There is always something to see out of the window, whether it’s spotting a black bear in Canada or simply taking in the scenery. Unlike cars, trains allow for leisurely strolls and opportunities to socialize with fellow passengers. I cherish the late-night conversations with restaurant car attendants, where I’ve heard incredible stories like that of the Afghan cyclist who pedaled through Russia before abandoning his bike at the Norwegian border. They are more enjoyable than boats because their gentle rocking motion induces a peaceful slumber.

While I don’t dislike countries without railways – some of my favorite destinations like Yemen, Papua New Guinea, and Iceland lack them – I must admit that they add a certain allure. The commuter trains in Sri Lanka offer breathtaking vistas, while Indian third-class carriages provide an array of entertainment, from circus performers squeezing through impossibly small hoops to passionate beggars singing their hearts out. I savor the abundance of snacks, lively conversations, and the availability of newspapers. I especially love the quiet moments when insomniacs step off for a cigarette during nighttime stops. During my trip on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway in West Bengal, I had the pleasure of traveling with enthusiastic botanists. Whenever the century-old steam locomotive paused, which happened frequently, they would eagerly hop off to collect plant specimens in the jungle, returning with pollen-dusted noses.

One doesn’t need to travel far to experience magical moments. Trains can take you to enchanting destinations such as Istanbul, Tbilisi, and Narvik. Even closer to the UK, France boasts some classic routes, such as the scenic journey from Nice to Dignes-les-Bains on Les Pignes, also known as the “route of the pine cones.” The Bernina Express from St Moritz in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy is another iconic choice. Personally, I have a fondness for the Innsbruck to Bolzano route, which includes a chilly stop at the Brenner Pass, evoking the spirit of old central Europe.

In addition to the lines themselves, the stations across Europe can be just as captivating. Amsterdam features memorable waiting rooms, but there are other iconic buildings farther afield. Kuala Lumpur’s Sentral station, a triumph of Indo-Saracenic architecture, is said to have had a roof sturdy enough to hold three feet of snow during colonial times.

In the UK, there are numerous railway lines that awaken us from our complacency and renew our appreciation for rail travel. The Heart of Wales, the Exeter to Plymouth line, Glasgow to Mallaig – all offer stunning views and unique experiences. Even the east coast mainline surprises with its sudden vistas of the North Sea and the charming port town of Alnmouth nestled in the River Aln. Riding the rails into Leeds or Manchester feels like stepping back in time to the Industrial Revolution, with its yards, windows, graffiti, and archways.

In the face of the climate emergency, it is imperative that we embrace the magic of railways once again and break free from the automatic reflex of choosing air travel. Find inspiration in my railway adventures and other travels by reading my Backstory on Substack: backstory.substack.com/

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