“The Bear,” the popular FX show, takes a dive into the world of fine dining in its second season. As a struggling Chicago restaurant gears up for a reopening, two of their employees embark on apprenticeships at reputable establishments in Chicago and Copenhagen. The apprentices work diligently, dedicating their time and effort to perfect their craft. This type of apprenticeship, known as “staging” in the fine dining industry, is depicted on the show as a more personal and emotional experience than some chefs remember.
Despite “The Bear” being highly praised for its realistic portrayal of the restaurant industry, some chefs believe that it presents a overly optimistic view of working in fine dining restaurants. Chef Kwang Uh of Baroo in Los Angeles compares the show to a soap opera rather than a documentary. Having spent three months staging at Noma in Copenhagen, Uh recounts his experience of starting from the bottom, performing tasks like picking herbs and sawing bones by hand despite his years of experience.
Other chefs, like Eric Rivera and Stephen Chavez, also discredit certain scenarios portrayed on the show. Rivera, who staged at Noma, points out that the majority of a stagiaire’s day is spent cleaning and preparing ingredients, not just plating dishes. He also doubts that an employee from a small restaurant in Chicago could afford to live in Copenhagen and work at a top restaurant like Noma.
“The Bear” does touch upon the changing culture of kitchens, although its portrayal may not be entirely accurate. The show depicts the chef training Marcus, played by Will Poulter, correcting him without raising his voice or displaying aggression, which does not reflect the experiences of some unpaid interns in Copenhagen’s top restaurants who endured abuse and dangerous working conditions.
Despite these discrepancies, many chefs still appreciate the accurate elements portrayed on the show. Both Marcus and Richie, played by Ebon Moss-Bachrach, start their days early and end late into the night. Stagiaires at Noma often work 15-hour shifts, showcasing the cultish commitment to excellence in top restaurants. Richie’s task of shining forks may seem menial, but it is seen as an important detail that contributes to the overall standards and respect within the kitchen.
Even with the long hours, low pay, and instability, chefs agree that staging is an essential learning experience. Hannah Barton, a manager at Herons in North Carolina, had a transformative experience staging at Ever for just two days. It impacted her approach to seating arrangements and even influenced her hiring decisions. The mentality and dedication showcased by everyone at Ever left a lasting impression on her, and she wishes all her servers could embody the same mindset.
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