Galicia in northern Spain is a captivating destination with its beautiful beaches, stunning coastline, and Celtic influences. The region also boasts a more comfortable climate compared to other parts of Spain. When you enter Galicia, you’ll be greeted by a long bridge that crosses the Ría de Ribadeo estuary, offering a dramatic view of the Torre dos Moreno and a large Galician hórreo (concrete granary stores resembling reliquaries) that serve as a reminder of the region’s unique identity.
In his essay collection “Santiago, Here I Come,” West Cork writer Perry O’Donovan aptly describes Galicia as “like Bantry Fair Day on acid.” The landscape, soft yet rugged, bears resemblance to West Cork, as does the overall ambiance of the region, which feels distinct from the rest of Spain. Traditional music, including the love for bagpipes, thrives here, and the charming old villages often resemble scenes from the Asterix cartoons, creating a slightly surreal Gaelic atmosphere in Galicia.
One of the must-visit places in Galicia is Cathedral Beach (Praia das Catedrais). To fully enjoy this enchanting spot with its stunning beach cliffs, it is recommended to book online during the summer months. On my visit, I was serenaded by a lone piper playing the bagpipes near the first cliff, setting the perfect mood for a captivating stroll beyond. The only disappointment was realizing that I had forgotten my swimming trunks in the car.
Lugo, located about 85km inland, boasts a beautifully preserved old town surrounded by Roman walls. Exploring the town in the evening offers a delightful experience, where you can immerse yourself in Galician tapas culture while witnessing the town come alive. While Santiago de Compostela is undoubtedly the most famous city in the region, we chose to explore Noia, a gem of a town located about 40km to the west. Noia offers a charming old center and a wide selection of eateries.
As you move along the coastline, you’ll encounter the picturesque Rías Baixas. This stunning coastal region features long inlets and remarkable peninsulas adorned with pristine sandy beaches. The combination of landscapes resembles a blend of West Cork and the Norwegian fjords, with the water temperature in these narrow inlets being more Mediterranean than what you would find in West Cork.
For a family holiday, Porto do Son serves as an excellent base. The town center has been beautifully revitalized, and the addition of a marina has added a touch of sophistication to this fishing town. With several magnificent beaches within the town and a short drive along the coast, Porto do Son offers ample options for seaside relaxation.
A detour to Castro de Baroña is also highly recommended. This ancient village sits on a promontory by the sea and provides a fascinating glimpse into the region’s Celtic heritage. The term “castro” refers to an old Celtic settlement, and you can explore various excavated examples in the area. However, Castro de Baroña stands out due to its stunning location and its smaller version of the Dún Aonghasa on Inis Mór. Visitors can freely wander among the remains of circular and oval-shaped buildings that were once home to our ancient Celtic ancestors.
An interesting historical tidbit I discovered during my visit was that the Galician Gaels actually conquered the region, including A Coruña on the north coast, which is now famous for its iconic Roman tower. According to the Tower of Hercules’ brochure, the Celtic leader Breoghan founded the city and built the great tower. His son Ithe claimed to see Ireland from the top of the tower and set off to conquer the Emerald Isle but met a tragic end on his journey. His son Mil continued the quest and successfully defeated the Tuatha Dé Danann, establishing the Galician connection to Ireland. While the truth behind these legends may be questionable, they add a touch of Celtic magic to the region.
From the top of the Tower of Hercules, built by the Romans over 2,000 years ago, breathtaking views of the coastline, sculpture trail, and coastal park below unfold. It’s an ideal place to embrace the warm, breezy air and take in the splendid scenery. Galicia’s climate is undeniably appealing, especially for those who prefer to avoid scorching heatwaves. The summers in Galicia offer a similar experience to an exceptionally warm summer in Ireland, making it a welcome respite for travelers seeking a more temperate environment.
Another advantage of Galicia is that it remains relatively untouched by excessive tourism. While there are visitors to the region, it is not overrun with crowds like other popular tourist destinations. This lack of overtourism also means that prices remain reasonable, providing opportunities to dine inexpensively along the way.
Vigo, Galicia’s largest town and Spain’s largest fishing port, may not receive much attention in most guidebooks, but it offers a bustling and vibrant atmosphere. The eclectic architecture and the district west and south of Plaza de Compostela in the old-town area deserve exploration. The local ambiance and affordable yet delicious food in the restaurants and tapas bars make strolling through this part of the town an enjoyable experience. Each corner reveals surprises, from medieval cathedrals to quaint village squares and modern plazas with stunning views of the hilly streets cascading down to the sea. Vigo is also blessed with numerous beaches that extend southward from the city, with Praia da Fontaíña being a local favorite, just a short 15-minute drive from the city center. While I briefly considered playing hurling on the beach, I opted for a leisurely picnic and swim in the ocean instead, further embracing the natural beauty of Galicia.
Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Praia das Furnas, a beach that holds cultural significance due to its appearance in the film “The Sea Inside” featuring Javier Bardem. This beach is connected to the life of Ramón Sampedro, who had a life-altering accident and became the inspiration for the movie.
To explore Galicia, consider taking the Brittany Ferries from Rosslare to Bilbao, starting from €680 for a round trip with a car and two passengers, including a cabin.
During my visit, I stayed at Casa do Torno, a converted school overlooking Noia, which offers comfortable accommodation. Another option is Eurostars Gran Hotel in Lugo, a four-star hotel with a distinct American cultural vibe. Lastly, Hotel Ciudad de Vigo provides excellent harbor views from its top floor.
Whether you’re searching for captivating landscapes, fascinating Celtic heritage, or affordable and delicious dining experiences, Galicia in Spain is a destination worth exploring. So embark on a journey to this unique region and create unforgettable memories.
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