Viscose rayon, a popular textile, is often marketed as eco-friendly, but its production has had a negative impact on the environment. This raises the question of whether a more sustainable alternative is possible on a large scale. Two potential next-generation alternatives to viscose were presented at a recent trade fair in London.
According to Canopy, an environmental non-profit group, 300 million trees are cut down annually to produce viscose rayon. To address this issue, Canopy received a $60 million grant from The Audacious Project to accelerate the commercialization of next-generation viscose made from various waste materials including cotton waste, coconut water, citrus fruit, wheat straw, corn, molasses, and hemp. Canopy aims to introduce 60 million tons of new materials to the market by 2033 in collaboration with businesses. Their goal is to bring about significant change in the pulp sector, which includes paper and packaging, as stopping deforestation is the most effective way to combat climate change.
In this article, we will explore two potential alternatives to viscose that are ready to be scaled up for commercial production.
One alternative is viscose made from recycled cotton. Clothing waste is a plentiful source of feedstock for producing viscose, with 60% of the 100 billion items of apparel produced each year ending up in landfills within 12 months. However, collecting textile waste and sorting it is a challenge due to limited infrastructure. Additionally, garments to be recycled into viscose need to be made of plant-based fibers like cotton, linen, or hemp. Currently, the technology is focused on processing 100% cotton garments. Renewcell, a textile recycling company based in Sweden, is leading the way in this area. They have launched a pulp mill for next-generation viscose production, which will be capable of producing 120,000 tonnes of material by early 2024. The resulting material, called Circulose, emits 5 tonnes less carbon per tonne of product compared to traditional viscose and uses 90% less water and fewer chemicals.
Another potential alternative is viscose made from coconut water, a byproduct of coconut processing. Australian company Nanollose has developed Nullarbor fiber, a next-generation viscose derived from coconut water. The cellulose for viscose is produced through a fermentation process where bacteria convert sugars in the coconut water into cellulose. This cellulose is then transformed into a viscous substance and turned into yarn. The production process requires minimal land, water, and energy use, and the cycle takes only 18 days. Nullarbor fiber has a similar feel to lightweight lyocell or bamboo, making it suitable for close-to-skin garments like underwear or workout gear.
Both of these alternatives show great potential for scaled-up production and offer more eco-friendly options compared to traditional viscose. With further improvement in technology and supply chain development, these alternatives could help reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry while still meeting consumers’ demand for sustainable textiles.
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