Walking along the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro is an experience that will evoke a range of emotions, even for those who have always admired “walks on the beach.” Whether it’s the nostalgic longing for a coming-of-age in such a beautiful place, the realization of how bossa nova music perfectly fits the ambiance, or contemplations about the rules for Brazil’s digital-nomad visa, this stroll never fails to move me, despite having visited more than 20 times.
The majority of this scenic walk takes place on the boardless boardwalk, known as the “calçadão” to Brazilians. As you walk, you’ll hear the rhythmic slapping of a thousand flip-flops on the wave-patterned Portuguese pavement, creating a unique soundtrack for your journey.
The route is straightforward: start by walking along the first beach, briefly cut inland to go around a rocky peninsula, and continue along the second beach. Along the way, you’ll find numerous kiosks where you can stop for refreshments. If you feel like taking a dip in the water or exploring the urban surroundings, simply turn left or right whenever the desire strikes.
To make the most of your walk, I recommend starting in the midafternoon on a sunny day. The beach scene in Rio under gray skies is not as vibrant, so it’s best to enjoy it when the weather is optimal. Weekends are good, but summer weekends from December to February are even better. Sundays are ideal because the city closes the adjacent beachfront avenue, allowing locals to gather and take leisurely strolls.
When it comes to attire, sneakers or flip-flops are suitable, but please avoid wearing sandals with socks. Rio de Janeiro beaches embrace all body types and visitors’ idiosyncrasies, such as loose-fitting bikinis and sunburned skin. However, even the locals draw the line somewhere. Remember to bring sunscreen, a credit card for wireless payments (which are widely accepted, even at street vendors), and keep your smartphone safely stowed in your pocket. While this part of Rio is relatively safe during the day, it’s still prudent to be cautious. You won’t need a step counter; instead, use the lifeguard posts (postos), conveniently numbered from 1 to 12, to track your progress.
Begin your journey at Leme Beach, which seamlessly connects to Copacabana. Take a moment to walk out to “Fisherman’s Path” along the rocks and say hello to the bronze statue of Clarice Lispector, one of Brazil’s renowned 20th-century novelists, or interact with the local fishermen. As you pass Posto 1, you’ll encounter young people sunbathing and playing altinha, an impressive game of keeping a soccer ball in the air.
Posto 2 marks the beginning of Copacabana, a beach that combines touristy elements due to the presence of hotels and diverse elements due to the influence of public transportation. It exudes vibrant energy with foot volleyball games, sand sculptures, and a notable non-sand sculpture of Ayrton Senna, the revered Formula 1 driver. Take a moment to admire the Copacabana Palace, a majestic hotel that has graced the beach since 1923, adding a touch of French Riviera elegance.
The first beach comes to an end not far past Posto 6, near Fort Copacabana. Cut across Francisco Otaviano Street for three-plus blocks, passing through a park until you reach Arpoador Beach. This beach is particularly known for morning surfers and late-afternoon sunset enthusiasts. It also features a charming park atop a small peninsula.
Between Postos 7 and 8, you’ll encounter another bronze statue, this time of Tom Jobim holding a guitar. Tom Jobim is the composer of the bossa nova classic “Girl From Ipanema.” If it happens to be a Sunday, take a detour to General Osório Square to explore the crafts at the Hippie Market. Then, head towards Posto 9, where you’ll find finely sculptured specimens of the human form. It’s a perfect time to take a break and relax on the sand—there’s always a friendly beach chair renter who will appear as if by magic.
If you haven’t left the beach at this point, consider turning right on Rua Vinícius de Moraes, named after the lyricist of “Girl From Ipanema,” to venture onto Ipanema’s main street. Treat yourself to delicious ice cream at Vero or indulge in an icy guava juice or grilled sandwich at Polis Sucos.
Afterwards, head back to the beach, cross the canal, and you’ll enter the mellower and more affluent stretch known as Leblon. From the end of the beach, you can either climb the short but winding road to a lookout point or, for an even better experience, join the locals at Boteco Boa Praça. Order a chopp (an icy, foamy draft beer) and savor the moment. While there’s still more of Rio to explore, no beach day is complete without this quintessential Rio experience.
Here are some essential details about the walk:
– Distance: Five miles
– Difficulty: Easy, with mostly flat terrain, but it can get hot and sweaty on sunny days.
– Time to walk: Approximately two and a half to three hours, but feel free to linger.
– Good for kids: It may not be the best choice for young children due to the length of the walk, as they’ll likely be more interested in playing on the beach.
So lace up your sneakers or slip into your flip-flops, grab your sunscreen and credit card, and embark on a memorable stroll along Rio de Janeiro’s iconic beaches.
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