Sharkbait & Swim, located at Arch 11, 4 Deptford Market Yard, London SE8 4BX ([email protected] for bookings), offers a unique and creative seafood dining experience. With small and large plates ranging from £4.50 to £22, as well as a selection of wines starting at £26, guests can indulge in a variety of flavors and textures.
At Sharkbait & Swim, we have a different perspective on oysters. We don’t worry about encountering a “bad” oyster because we believe that oyster agnostics, who feel obligated to like oysters but are suspicious of them, are the ones who fear it. Instead, we hope to discover not just good oysters, but better and even the very best ones, as not all oysters are created equal. Some may offer a refreshing burst of brine but lack body, while others may be more substantial but lack complexity.
However, the oysters served at Sharkbait & Swim defy expectations. Despite being out of season, these rock oysters are plump and flavorful. They possess a unique creaminess and sea urchin funk that reminds me of the superb pearly specimens I had at the Acme Oyster House in New Orleans. Priced at £2.80 each or £15 for six, these oysters are a great deal for anyone within the M25 or beyond.
To enhance the oyster experience, we offer a plastic aerosol of whisky to spritz over the top, followed by a squeeze of lemon. While initially, the whisky may seem like an affectation, it surprisingly elevates the oyster, adding a touch of sweetness that pairs perfectly with the lemon. For those seeking a more haute couture version of oysters, we also offer options dressed with ponzu, ginger, coriander, or nam jim jaew for £3.20 each.
Sharkbait & Swim, situated in the Deptford Market Yard development near the Deptford overground station, is housed in a red-brick railway arch along with other diverse restaurants. During the summer, guests can enjoy dining al fresco, which allows us to accommodate more customers. Our current menu is tailored to the warmer season, featuring small plates priced between £10 and £12.
One standout dish is the trout ceviche, served in a stunning blue glazed ceramic bowl, swimming in a chilled yuzu and soy broth. The addition of big puffed grains of rice adds texture, making each bite a delight. Grilled mackerel with a sweet tomato and butter sauce, as well as deep-fried whitebait with a chili-boosted golden crumb, also showcase the unique flavors and quality of our seafood.
For those looking for a heartier option, our whole sea bream, lightly battered and deep-fried with togarashi spice, is a must-try. It comes with a side of chips, adding some much-needed carbohydrates to the meal. Finish off the dining experience with our special ox cheek and miso croquettes, served with a jalapeño jam that adds a pleasant warmth to the dish.
While our dessert options are limited, our service, provided by a dedicated staff member juggling tables, is top-notch. We understand that Deptford is currently experiencing a wave of gentrification, but our chef-owner, Steve McClarty, has a remarkable background that defies any preconceived notions. From starting out as a homeless teenager to working with renowned chefs, McClarty has persevered to bring this delightful small restaurant to fruition.
In other news, Imad Alarnab, a Syrian chef and restaurateur, has released his debut cookbook titled “Imad’s Syrian Kitchen.” This cookbook not only shares recipes from his acclaimed restaurant in London but also tells the story of his journey from Damascus to the UK during the civil war.
On a different note, Simpson’s in the Strand, a historic restaurant that remained closed after lockdown, is selling off its fixtures and fittings, including its iconic art deco mirrors and roast carving trolleys. While it’s disheartening to see such a heritage being dispersed, there’s an opportunity for interested individuals to bid on these items.
Lastly, Jeremy King, co-founder of renowned dining establishments like the Wolseley, Delaunay, and Zedel, has announced his latest venture, The Park. This new establishment will be located on the ground floor of a newly developed space and is sure to bring King’s signature touch to the dining scene.
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