Experience the joy and nostalgia of dessert at Med Salleh, a Malaysian café in London’s Bayswater, where even the staff can’t help but get excited. The waiter, reminiscing about his childhood in Penang, proudly presents the iced kacang atas, his favorite dessert. A tower of shaved ice drenched in fruity syrups awaits, surrounded by roasted peanuts, fresh sweetcorn, red beans, and jelly cubes. The dish is completed with rose syrup, evaporated milk, and a cascading caramel sauce. It’s a spectacular sight, almost deserving of a grand entrance fit for a Bonnie Tyler performance.
Although the description may sound overly sweet, these shaved ice desserts are designed to cool and refresh you in the sweltering heat of tropical climates. The sweetness is balanced, leaving a subtle and pleasant fragrance. As you spoon through the layers, you find yourself indulging in a fruity, chilled soup, as the last remnants of dry ice evaporate. It’s an experience worth £9.80, and you won’t find it cheaper elsewhere. Remember, we’re in a Malaysian-owned restaurant with a post-colonial ambiance, not in Malaysia itself.
Med Salleh Kopitiam offers a diverse menu of Malaysian street food with influences from various cultures. You’ll find familiar dishes like laksa, Malaysian chicken curry, nasi lemak, and mee goreng. Unfortunately, they were out of one of the beloved sardine curry puffs, but fear not, as chicken satay is available. Generous portions of spiced grilled chicken thigh come with a sweet and oily sauce and cucumber batons for a refreshing crunch. Don’t let anything go to waste.
The Hainanese chicken rice is a must-try. This adaptation of a Chinese dish brought to the region by Hainanese immigrants is a delightful culinary experience. The rice is cooked to perfection, glossy and fragrant with turmeric and chicken fat. Accompanied by poached chicken leg, various sauces including sweet soy and chili, and a peppery chicken broth, you create your own symphony of flavors.
Beef rendang, a rich, tender beef in a coconut sauce transformed into a dry, spiced crust, is available as a main dish or an extra side. The grilled prawns, coated in sambal tumis sauce, are finger-licking good, but be prepared for a messy feast. Wet wipes are on hand to assist with the aftermath.
To complete your meal, enjoy a milky drink infused with vibrant syrups and jelly cubes, served in nostalgic dimpled pint tankards. If you’re feeling adventurous, browse the shelves of Malaysian food available for purchase. And for an authentic Malaysian breakfast, visit between 8am and 10am for options like flaky roti canai with curry or classic nasi lemak with fried chicken.
I must credit Henry Taylor, a restaurant PR, for recommending Med Salleh. He’s known for starting his emails with weather updates, and this time, he was absolutely right.
In other news, Chef Paul Foster is opening GrassFed, his first London restaurant, with a focus on grilling grass-fed beef and seafood. Edinburgh’s Timberyard is expanding with Montrose House, a small wine bar and restaurant serving European small plates. The San Carlo group of Italian restaurants has seen a significant increase in turnover, while Shake Shack’s UK branch, owned by Diverse Dining, has experienced growing losses. However, the directors remain optimistic about the company’s future growth.
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