Inevitably, the future of dining out is uncertain. However, there will always be a demand for restaurants that exude old-school glamour, like the new Manzi’s in Soho, despite the significant expenses involved. While innovative concepts like AI butlers and vegan fried chicken shops may be exciting, they may not be suitable for hosting special occasions or accommodating larger groups.
Personally, I was in search of a restaurant that could accommodate reservations, handle the inevitable noise levels of our group, and provide a comfortable setting for conversation. I wanted a complete dining experience with appetizers, main courses, and desserts, rather than a rushed meal. It also needed to be upscale but not overly expensive or interrupt our conversation with detailed explanations about specific ingredients.
Although some may consider these requirements outdated, the opening of a grand seafood brasserie, courtesy of the Wolseley Group, proves that there is still a market for venues that cater to a variety of dining preferences. This all-day establishment offers a range of options, from seafood classics like oysters and dover sole to more casual dishes like fish finger sandwiches and knickerbocker glories.
Manzi’s menu revolves around the sea, featuring indulgent items such as lobster thermidor and monkfish wellington. However, even if fish isn’t to your liking, there are alternative options available, such as lamb with aubergine caponata, rib-eye with cafe de paris butter, and Moroccan vegetable tagine. In other words, you don’t have to be a seafood enthusiast to enjoy dining at Manzi’s, though it certainly enhances the experience.
When I mention the sea-themed ambiance, I’m not referring to tacky decor commonly associated with coastal themes. Instead, Manzi’s boasts elegant marble mermaids, a colossal wall-mounted marlin, and a mural inspired by Hemingway’s “The Old Man and the Sea.” Tying it all together are crab-shaped salt and pepper shakers and various fish-inspired elements adorning the door handles and chair backs. It may seem over the top, but I find it delightfully charming.
Eating at Manzi’s feels like dining in a posh cruise-ship restaurant, reserved for special occasions. It evokes an atmosphere where individuals adorn smart attire, and the captain makes an appearance in his cummerbund. It’s not the typical all-you-can-eat buffet experience. Instead, it offers a brief escape, transporting you to a separate microcosm as you enjoy a Norwegian fjord and indulge in a souffle.
However, once you disembark from this metaphorical ship, stepping out onto Dean Street and Frith Street, you are immediately back in the lively chaos of Soho. Regardless, during my time at Manzi’s, I appreciated its whimsical and self-aware nature, evoking a sense of campiness that added to the overall enjoyment. Most importantly, the food exceeded my expectations.
The cioppino fish stew, brimming with cod, mussels, squid, and langoustine, combined with grilled sourdough and a flavorful saffron aioli, delivered a substantial and aromatic experience. The fried violet artichokes were perfectly crisp and buttery, complemented by a parsley and lemon gremolata. Additionally, the steamed whelks dressed in Sarson’s malt vinegar showcased the attention to detail present throughout the menu.
Although some may find the £16 price tag for a fish finger sandwich off-putting, I found it reasonable, considering the current state of London’s dining prices. Similarly, a half-pint of prawns for £14 brought me back to a time when prices were more affordable.
For dessert, the knickerbocker glory presented an extravagant combination of strawberry ripple ice cream, meringue, honeycomb, chocolate, whipped cream, and raspberry sauce. While it may be considered ridiculous and childlike, it perfectly suited the overall essence of Manzi’s. Alternatively, the strawberry and cream tart offered a more refined option.
Admittedly, Manzi’s may not offer the best food in London. However, establishments like Delauney, Brasserie Zédel, and Fischer’s have also gained popularity despite not being renowned for their culinary excellence. People flock to these restaurants because they are consistently open, easy to navigate, and provide a pleasant dining experience with a large, attentive staff. Manzi’s follows this same formula, but with a modern twist, featuring glossy marble, crab-shaped pepper shakers, and mermaid accents. So, if you believe this type of dining experience is a thing of the past, you’re clearly missing out.
Location: Manzi’s, 1-8 Bateman’s Buildings, London W1
Contact: 020-3540 4546
Hours: Open all week, 11:30 AM – 11:00 PM (10:00 PM on Sundays)
Price: Approximately £50 per person for à la carte, prix-fixe menus available for £28 (two courses) or £32.50 (three courses), excluding drinks and service charge
Grace Dent’s upcoming book, “Comfort Eating: What We Eat When No One Is Looking,” will be published in October by Guardian Faber. Pre-order your copy for £16 at guardianbookshop.com.
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