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Dwight Garner, a celebrated book critic for The New York Times, is a passionate reader and a devoted foodie. In his upcoming book, he seamlessly combines these two passions, creating a delightful experience. Titled The Upstairs Delicatessen: On Eating, Reading, Reading About Eating, and Eating While Reading (Farrar, Straus and Giroux, out 24 October), the book speaks for itself.
While other books explore the intersection of food and literature, Garner takes a more eclectic approach, delving into what he describes as the fun and casual side of culinary experiences. Instead of the typical references to Proust’s madeleines or the boeuf en daube from To the Lighthouse, Garner offers a refreshing overview that leans towards the “Diet Coke and potato chips” end of the spectrum.
© Richard Bowditch
Garner reflects on his formative years as a chubby kid, indulging in pretzels and cookies while diving into books. He also reminisces about his mother’s cooking, which he couldn’t resist. From literary breakfasts to indulgent working lunches, Garner offers insightful disquisitions and life lessons.
This book covers it all, including hangover remedies (inspired by Kingsley Amis), tips for cooking with arthritis (thanks to Jessica Mitford), mastering the art of seating plans (with guidance from Tina Brown), and surviving conversations with bores (as described by hostess Sally Quinn). Garner shares Virginia Faulkner and diplomat Jerry Wadsworth’s guaranteed conversation starters, which include thought-provoking questions like “Are you a bed wetter?” and “Do you like string?”
In addition, Garner humorously presents examples of what not to do. For instance, he advises against hosting a “Mazola party” like Julia Child’s friends, which involved stripping down in a room covered in Mazola cooking oil.
Sexual innuendos are not left out, with Garner sharing Michael Ruhlman’s roast chicken recipe that suggests putting the chicken in the oven, having sex, and expecting the chicken to be done when you’re done. A panel discussion on this topic sparked critic Daniel Mendelsohn’s dry comment: “Whenever I try that, my chicken gets burned to a crisp.”
This book provides memorable titbits that will stay with you long after the final page.
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