All-Singing, All-Dancing Fashion Week: London’s Avant Garde Designers Shine
The atmosphere of London Fashion Week continues to dazzle as designers bring their avant garde tastes to the forefront. Adding a twist to the trend of accessorizing shows with showmanship, London’s famously esoteric fashion designers take center stage.
The Roksanda show, for instance, featured the soprano Isabelle Peters captivating the audience with Puccini arias. As modern ballgowns in vibrant lime and peach silk gracefully floated down the alfresco catwalk, the circular courtyard of London’s Barbican Centre was transformed into an enchanting setting. Designer Roksanda Ilinčić explained, “I thought it would be magical to have a very human sound in all this concrete.” The Barbican, being one of her favorite buildings, contributed to her inspiration. Moreover, the clothes on the runway were reminiscent of the medieval monasteries found in Serbia, Ilinčić’s birthplace.
This inspiration was evident in the headgear adorned by the models—boxed crowns reminiscent of those worn by Orthodox priests but draped with fabric in the style of a nun’s wimple. Paired with striking neon silk-fringed shoes resembling monstrous false eyelashes and sheer black stockings, the overall aesthetic was undeniably esoteric.
The revealing sheer-topped dresses, in contrast to the nun-like outfits, added intrigue. Reflecting on the source of her inspiration, Ilinčić shared, “The monasteries in the area my mum is from are famously beautiful. I was christened in one of them. It’s a heritage that’s been in front of my eyes for ages but I couldn’t see it.” The medieval monasteries of Gracanica, Studenica, and Kalenic, characterized by their scalloped towers and intricate frescoes, served as the inspiration for this unique collection. Ilinčić added, “My clothes are known for their exuberance, so it was interesting to look at religious garments, which carry so much emotion but within a more minimal look.”
During the show, the contrast between fully covered looks with modestly shrouded bodies and hair and more revealing garments that exposed the waist showcased Ilinčić’s intention. “I ordered it so that the nun-like outfits were in between revealing ones that show your breasts. It is completely up to a woman whether she wants to reveal her body or cover up. That’s not for anyone else to dictate. Either way can be elegant, elevated and respectful,” she explained.
Among the attendees was Ilinčić’s friend and muse, Vanessa Redgrave. As they eagerly awaited the show, Redgrave engaged in conversation with Anna Wintour, both wearing stylish outfits that exuded grace and sophistication.
Another notable designer, Jonathan Anderson, showcased his artistic vision at Camden Town’s Roundhouse. Along with his JW Anderson line in London, Anderson also works with luxury heavyweight Loewe in Paris. For this particular show, he created hoodies and shorts out of play-dough to achieve an exaggerated silhouette and convey a sense of angst and toughness. Nevertheless, underneath the artistic flourishes, there was a focus on real, wearable fashion, incorporating designs like knit dresses, bomber jackets, and cargo pants. Anderson expressed his desire for truth and simplicity in his collection, stating, “I want truth and simplicity in the collection too.” The soundtrack for the show, ranging from Fred Again to Cher, reflected the music Anderson and his team enjoyed during the summer.
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