In Syria, the concept of “the eye eats before the mouth” holds true, even for simple, midweek meals. Presentation and color are important. A typical meal consists of hummus, fresh bread, various meat dishes, vegetable salads, and pickles. There’s always more food than we can finish in one sitting, resulting in leftovers. These leftovers are then transformed into tomorrow’s meals, complemented by freshly made additions such as salads, rice dishes, and sides. This is how we honor the tradition of eating.
One delicious dish to make during the summer when tomatoes are at their peak is the heritage tomato, roast fennel, and dukkah salad. The quality of the tomatoes greatly impacts the taste, so investing in good ones is worth it.
To make the salad, start by preparing the dukkah. Toast cumin and coriander seeds in a dry pan until they release a fragrant aroma. Remove from heat and add pink peppercorns, toasting them in the residual heat. Grind the seeds and peppercorns in a mortar and transfer to a small bowl. Stir in urfa and aleppo chili flakes. Once cooled, store the dukkah in a jar for up to a month. When ready to use, toast nuts and seeds until golden, crush them, and add to the spice mix.
For the salad itself, preheat the oven and cut the fennel into wedges. Toss with olive oil, za’atar, and salt, then roast until soft and golden. Combine tomatoes, salt, extra-virgin olive oil, lemon zest and juice, and dukkah. Crumble goat’s cheese and arrange it on a platter with the roasted fennel and tomatoes. Finish off with tarragon leaves.
Another staple midweek meal is Imad Alarnab’s jaj bailfurn, or grilled chicken thighs. This one-tray meal is versatile and allows for the use of any vegetables you have on hand. Making your own shish taouk is recommended, but store-bought can be used as well.
To make the shish taouk marinade, combine ground allspice, ground cinnamon, garlic powder, and ground nutmeg in a small bowl. Set aside.
In a large bowl, mix together the marinade ingredients, reserving two tablespoons for later. Add the chicken thighs to the bowl and coat them evenly. Marinate in the fridge for at least two hours, or ideally, overnight.
When ready to cook, preheat the oven and place the vegetables in a high-sided oven tray. Arrange the chicken thighs, skin side up, on top. Cover the tray with foil and bake. After 25 minutes, remove the foil, brush the chicken with the reserved marinade, and return to the oven until the skin is crisp.
Serve the grilled chicken thighs with rice or tabbouleh.
This recipe is adapted from “Imad’s Syrian Kitchen” by Imad Alarnab, published by HarperCollins. You can order a copy from guardianbookshop.com for £22.88.
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