Visitors to the Côte d’Azur can easily identify the region’s historical ties to Italy, even without stepping foot in a museum. The area didn’t become part of France until 1860, and as a result, the dialect, architecture, and cuisine all have a distinct Ligurian influence. One can even find a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi in Nice, his birthplace.
Pissaladière, a traditional Niçoise hors d’oeuvre, shares more than a passing resemblance to pizza. However, as Noble Rot Soho’s chef Alex Jackson notes, it is “much more than the sum of its parts”. Describing it simply as an “onion tart with anchovies and olives” fails to capture its true essence. This salty-sweet and deliciously oily dish is best enjoyed in small squares with a chilled aperitif or in larger wedges with a green salad.
When it comes to the base of the pissaladière, there are various opinions on the most authentic option. Some argue that it should be made with bread dough, while others suggest puff pastry or even shortcrust pastry. The choice ultimately comes down to personal preference, with each option offering its own unique twist on the traditional recipe.
The onions used in pissaladière are another area of debate. Ideally, one should use expensive small white onions from Italy and France, as they become remarkably mild and sweet when cooked slowly in olive oil. However, it can be challenging to find these specific onions, and alternatives such as sweet onions or red onions can be used instead. The key is to achieve a level of sweetness that contrasts with the salty toppings without overpowering them.
Preparing the onions requires time and patience, as they must be cooked slowly until they reach a semi-puree consistency. Garlic and herbs like thyme or a bouquet garni can be added for additional flavor, although they are not essential.
As for the toppings, there is a consensus that olives and anchovies are the key components. Opt for salted black olives, preferably the “à la Grecque” variety, for maximum flavor impact. Anchovies, whether salted or oil-packed, provide a savory element to the dish. Some variations call for stirring anchovies into the onions while cooking, but this can affect the balance of flavors. It is a preference reserved for true anchovy enthusiasts.
While some variations include a layer of tomato sauce, purists argue that it belongs in the Ligurian version of the dish, not the Niçoise one. However, Bocuse’s addition of tomato sauce does offer a delightful twist, despite its departure from tradition.
In conclusion, the pissaladière is a culinary delight that showcases the region’s unique history and cultural influences. Experimenting with different bases, onions, and toppings allows for a personalized twist on this classic dish. Whether enjoyed as a light appetizer or a satisfying main course, the pissaladière captivates the senses with its flavors and textures.
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