I find myself in a location south of Paris, contemplating the fact that if I had flown, I would already be there. As I observe the train’s speedometer reach 300kmph (186mph), later settling at 296, I can’t help but marvel at the incredible pace. In the past, this speed would have outpaced most civil airplanes before the advent of jet engines. Even the advanced flying boats built in Belfast by Imperial Airways before World War II cruised at lesser speeds when traveling to South Africa.
The guard interrupts my thoughts to express gratitude for “traveling ecologically.” Outside the window, a ruined chateau passes by, followed by a herd of peacefully grazing deer. To the east, I catch a glimpse of snow-capped peaks shimmering with pale light, with the majestic Mont Blanc rising above them.
I am on my way to Morocco by land, embarking on a three-day rail and ferry journey instead of a four-hour flight. The itinerary includes traveling from York to London, taking the Eurostar to Paris, transferring to the metro to reach Gare de Lyon for the express train to Barcelona. I will spend the night in Barcelona, then continue my journey by train to Madrid and finally reach Algeciras on the south coast. After a night in a hotel, I will take an early bus transfer to Tarifa for the ferry ride to Tangier.
My reason for choosing this mode of travel is the environmental benefits, but the impressive speed of the train also triggers some uncertainty. How can it be so much better? There’s also a lingering doubt, perhaps stemming from the controversy surrounding HS2. Are railways truly superior? As we seamlessly pass through lavender fields, I search for answers.
In terms of CO2 emissions, the truth becomes evident. Rail travel produces about 13 times fewer emissions per passenger compared to air travel. However, what about other factors like land use and infrastructure? I discover a report from the European Environment Agency, published in 2020, which delves into the minutiae of environmental costs associated with different modes of transportation. It takes into account factors such as railway operations, particulate pollution, noise, and CO2 emissions. Their conclusion is clear: while air travel may not always be the worst choice (as driving alone in a diesel car can be more damaging), rail travel is overwhelmingly less harmful to the environment.
I try to consider everything, including the two nights in hotels, extra food consumption, and the additional CO2 emitted from breathing. However, I realize that I would need to eat and breathe regardless of my mode of travel. While it’s possible that some planes may be fuel-efficient, I acknowledge that flying itself is not environmentally friendly. If it’s possible to avoid a flight, one should.
What I am currently experiencing is something that flying can never provide: the gradual transformation of the landscape, the transition from wheat and potato fields to the arrival of citrus groves and palm trees. The changes are subtle and mesmerizing.
As we turn towards the Spanish border and reach Béziers, I regret not planning a longer stop to explore this captivating town. In 1209, a tragic event occurred here when crusaders from the North massacred a crowd of 20,000 people, comprised of local Catholics and Cathars—regarded as religious heretics by the pope. The papal legate, Arnaud Amalric, reportedly responded to objections by saying, “Kill them all and let God sort out his own.” It serves as a reminder that not only the physical landscape changes, but also the history and culture that shape the human landscape.
Returning to my thoughts on CO2 emissions, the evidence is clear: if possible, one should avoid flying (even the time spent idling and taxiing can produce more than 500kg of CO2, which is equivalent to almost a dozen train journeys from Aberdeen to Penzance). However, I understand that the higher cost of land travel can be difficult to justify. A return flight from London to Marrakech can be as low as £54, whereas my train fares alone will cost around £350. How do airlines manage to stay in business with rising fuel prices and their substantial fuel consumption?
Perhaps the benefits to one’s well-being from avoiding air travel can help justify the cost. While planes promise a faster arrival, do you really want to deal with the queues, chaos, delays, and the discomfort of a child kicking your seat or someone watching movies without headphones? Avoiding all these inconveniences is surely worth the extra expense of train travel, I contemplate as we arrive in Barcelona.
The city looks breathtaking in the twilight, with the iconic towers of the Sagrada Família rising on the horizon. I indulge in tapas and beer at a cozy bar near the station, engaging in conversations with locals, before strolling back to my hotel. One advantage of this mode of travel is its flexibility. After visiting Morocco, I plan to make a detour through Galicia on my return journey and spend a week hiking. If I were flying, I doubt I would have considered such an opportunity.
The next morning, I savor churros dipped in café con leche as I watch the sun illuminate the Sagrada Família. I briefly doubt whether I should have taken an extra two days to explore Barcelona. I could have visited Gaudí’s masterpieces, toured the Gothic Quarter, and indulged in tapas at La Boqueria market. Maybe it’s time to let go of the desire for the swift arrival induced by air travel? But as we continue our journey, zipping through Catalonia’s peach groves, I realize I’m starting to wish the trains would slow down a bit.
During the two-hour layover in Madrid, I take the opportunity to walk to Retiro Park. The bookshops on Calle del Doctor Velasco bring back memories from when I lived here in 1986—it feels like catching up with an old friend. Atocha station has undergone reconstruction and demands to be explored. The city is also home to some of my favorite art galleries, including the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza, and Reina Sofía. However, the highlight for me is the Real Parroquia de San Antonio de la Florida, where Goya painted the interior and now rests in peace.
The next leg of the journey takes us through the deserted lands of Castilla La Mancha. For centuries, this region served as a buffer between Christianity and Islam—a vast area scattered with ancient olive trees and lean cattle. Our stop at Puertollano catches my attention, as it’s the birthplace of María Dueñas, the author of “The Seamstress,” a novel set in Spain and Morocco during WWII. Without this brief stop, I would have never discovered her literary work.
By the time we reach Córdoba, the architecture takes on a Moorish influence. In Antequera, instead of continuing on the main line to Málaga, we switch to the smaller Mr Henderson’s Railway. Built in the 1890s by British engineer John Morrison (financed by Mr Henderson), this scenic route meanders through the mountains of Andalucía, weaving its way via Ronda down to Algeciras.
The air now carries a warm breeze. I’m gradually transitioning into another climate zone, unlike the abrupt changes experienced during air travel. And there’s no risk of hearing announcements like “Passengers are informed that French air traffic controllers are now on strike. Please remain seated.” or the man with the permanent frown turning up the volume on Predator 2.
Arriving in Algeciras, I catch a whiff of Africa. The streets bear signs in both Spanish and Arabic. The dazzling lights of Gibraltar and Morocco lie close across the strait. I spend the night at Hotel Reina Cristina, built by Mr Henderson’s railway company (doubles from €75). The next morning, I hop on the complimentary bus provided by FRS ferry company to Tarifa. The beauty of this corner of Spain leaves me awestruck—the mountains are lush green, and every tall chimney seems to house a pair of storks.
Tarifa also proves to be a worthwhile stopover. This southernmost point of Europe is breathtaking, and I am reminded of the awe-inspiring journey I’ve embarked on.
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