At the peak of a steep trail winding through a picturesque birch forest in western Sweden, a middle-aged woman warmly greets us with a heartfelt “Välkommen!” It feels as if we are long-lost relatives being embraced. We are overjoyed to see her too, especially when we catch sight of the trays of delicious cinnamon buns, gherkins, and crisps – a Swedish take on a pit-stop – which will give us the energy to reach the next feed station.
My 12-year-old son and I have embarked on a trail running adventure along the coast of Bohuslän, Sweden’s most westerly province. This region boasts a breathtaking archipelago of more than 8,000 islands that stretch from Gothenburg to Norway. Our journey is part of the Icebug Xperience, a three-day event where participants can choose to run or hike (or even do both) a distance of 21 to 30km (13 to 18 miles) each day.
Initially drawn to the event by captivating social media images of runners silhouetted against pink granite cliffs amid purple heather and misty seascapes, I had planned to participate before the pandemic hit. My original intention was to enroll my sons in the event’s kids camp while I ran, giving them the opportunity to engage in activities such as sailing, crab fishing, and mini hikes. However, my eldest son developed a keen interest in running through parkrun and an athletics club, and he expressed a desire to join me in the main event. As long as they are accompanied by an adult, under 15s are allowed to participate. And so, our mother-son trail running adventure began.
The Icebug Xperience was initially conceived as an ultra-race a decade ago but has evolved into a more leisurely multi-day event. It is known more for providing participants with a memorable experience in a stunning, rough terrain rather than being a competitive race. While there are certainly fast runners at the front, the event also attracts relaxed hikers of all ages at the back. The approximately 850 participants are divided into groups based on whether they are hiking, running, or doing both. Our group ranged from a 75-year-old individual to my son, with several teenagers and numerous middle-aged participants. The majority of entrants are Swedish or Norwegian, many of whom return each year, but we also had the pleasure of meeting participants from Ireland, Canada, and Belgium.
Our home base for the event is the Ramsvik Stugby and Camping site, located outside Hunnebostrand. Approximately half of the participants are staying in a series of red cabins along the waterfront. After a restful night of sleep, we are ready for the first stage, “Hunnebo Haute,” which covers a distance of 21km. Our plan is to run the first half and then walk the rest. I am concerned about how my son’s legs will hold up over the course of the three days, not to mention my own. While I run regularly, I typically don’t go beyond 10km. Thanks to the adrenaline rush, the running portion flies by in a blissful haze of trees, sheep, rocky paths, and hillsides. However, the walking section through the forest feels arduous. Nevertheless, the signage is excellent, so we never fear getting lost, and the regular food stations, staffed by cheerful volunteers, provide much-needed respite.
We complete the final stretch along the coastline, traversing smooth, weathered rocks and bouncy wooden jetties until we reach the picturesque port town of Hunnebostrand. As we make our way back to the campsite on a boat, we enjoy carb-heavy vegetarian salad boxes. A swim in the sea helps soothe our aching feet and legs, and we watch a calming yoga session on the golden-lit beach from a pontoon.
The Icebug Xperience takes place in early September, once Swedish schools have resumed, so we practically have the campsite to ourselves. The package includes hearty breakfasts and dinners, creating a convivial atmosphere during the evenings. This year’s event will feature food trucks, music, and even an outdoor cinema.
On the second day, aptly named “Woods and Islands,” we take a short bus ride to the starting point and decide to take a sanctioned shortcut, reducing the distance from 30km to 20km. My son worries that this is cheating, but I remind him that completing just over 60km in three days is still an incredible accomplishment for his age.
The sparkling blue sea surrounds us. Photograph: Nicklas Elmrin/BILDBYRÅN
We also make a resolution to run the entire route at a slower pace, referred to by the Swedes as “snacka-tempo” or chatting pace. It’s a wonderful opportunity to spend quality time alone with my son, especially since he has recently started secondary school and all the confidence and testosterone that comes with it. I appreciate how this experience challenges us both in different ways – him in terms of endurance and mentality, and me in terms of speed and fitness. Despite the challenges, we conquer them together.
As we become more experienced, we adopt tactics employed by seasoned participants, such as foraging for berries whenever possible and walking up hills and sections with large boulders instead of charging through. This change in approach significantly improves our energy levels. However, when we finish in the mid-afternoon, we feel utterly exhausted and return to the campsite for an ice-bath swim and a satisfying dinner before collapsing into bed early.
The last day, “Ramsvik Rocks,” proves to be the most demanding on our weary legs, spanning a distance of 26km. Thankfully, the stunning scenery serves as a welcome distraction. We begin on an island, passing by the vibrantly painted houses of Smögenbryggan, before crossing over to the mainland. We navigate through dense forests and, with only 10km remaining, we cross a swing bridge onto Ramsvik. Eventually, we find ourselves running on the striking pink granite boulders that had captivated me in the initial pictures and which lend their name to today’s stage. The sparkling blue sea surrounds us.
Despite moments of wavering morale, we reach the finish line with cowbells ringing and cheers from the crowd. The campsite exudes a sense of tranquility and profound exhaustion. Swedes of all ages approach us to congratulate my son, and his beaming smile fills me with pride. I am tired but content – and incredibly proud of both of us.
Note: The trip was organized by Visit Sweden and Icebug Xperience. The event takes place from September 1st-3rd. Entry starts at £201 per person (lower when booked in advance), and cabin accommodation packages at Ramsvik Camping begin at £367 per person for three nights, or £436 per person for four nights with breakfast, dinner, and sauna access. For more information on Bohuslän, visit vastsverige.com.
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