A few years back, I was given the task of judging homemade wines at a local agricultural show. Let me tell you, the pressure and anxiety I felt during that experience far outweighed any tight deadlines or public speaking engagements I’ve encountered in the past. I quickly realized the seriousness and passion that these competitions evoke. It got to the point where I even had nightmares of being strangled by a siphoning tube. Luckily, my fellow judge had more experience and a more relaxed outlook. She believed that swirling the wine in your mouth before spitting it out was uncouth, so we both decided to drink a small glass of each entry. With over 20 entries to try, my initial fears faded away and were replaced with a warm, fuzzy feeling of contentment.
That was all before the pandemic hit. Nowadays, anyone taking on the task of judging homemade wines would most likely end up in the hospital due to the sheer number and variety of entries. During lockdown, people all over the country rediscovered old crafts, like baking, brewing, and winemaking. As a result, the number of entries in the industrial tent at agricultural shows, which showcases everything from baking to children’s art, knitting, jam, and photography, has skyrocketed.
I once saw a hilarious entry for the bread competition in Yorkshire. The loaf had a handwritten sign next to it proclaiming, “This is not a loaf!!!” Each exclamation point felt like a stab to the heart. A friend of mine entered cheese scones with chives to a show in County Durham and the reaction she received still gives her shivers.
These county shows, held all over the country, have become a beloved part of the Great British summer. They combine the agricultural aspect with the fun and eccentricity of a village fete, and their popularity continues to grow. With anti-Covid measures lifted, attendance at these shows has reached unprecedented levels. The Great Yorkshire Show saw record-breaking ticket sales, the Royal Highland Show broke its attendance record, and the Northumberland County Show experienced a 25% increase in admissions compared to pre-lockdown numbers. People’s growing interest in the local environment and food production, coupled with the rising cost of living, has led them to seek affordable entertainment closer to home. Many of these shows are run by registered charities and staffed by dedicated volunteers.
The heart of all the action at these shows is the industrial tent, which should not be missed. Here, you’ll find a delightful mishmash of competitions, from fruit scones to animal-shaped vegetable creations (get ready for an abundance of cucumber crocodiles). As a friend of mine once said after spending a happy half-hour admiring the “garden-on-a-plate” exhibits, “Why travel to far-flung places to see the exotic and bizarre when it’s right here on your doorstep?”
In addition to the industrial tent, there are stalls selling cakes, plants, novelty doormats, fishing-fly pictures, and hand-painted salt dough sheep. Various societies, such as the Country Land and Business Association and the Game & Wildlife Conservation Trust, set up tents, and there are trade stands showcasing companies specializing in dairy hygiene. Eventually, you’ll come across the livestock, which is the backbone of any show.
In the mid-18th century, Britain faced a crisis of famine caused by the population boom during the Industrial Revolution. Just as manufacturing had rapidly changed, British farming needed to adapt. Forward-thinking farmers like Thomas Coke, Lord Townsend, and Robert Bakewell led the way in promoting new scientific methods of stock breeding and crop management through county agricultural societies. These societies organized agricultural shows to showcase and explain these advancements, demonstrating the superiority of these new methods. Prizes were awarded to recognize the best stock and produce, encouraging the adoption of these practices. These shows were not just entertaining, but also educational and progressive. If people wanted fun, they could go to the circus.
Most larger shows display thousands of animals in a bewildering variety of forms. Surprisingly, Britain has more varieties of farm animals than any other country. Farmers gather around the sheep pens, examining, scratching, and chatting. The air is filled with their conversations, along with the buzz of electric clippers during shearing contests and the unique throaty warbling of sheep. At most major shows, up to 30 different sheep breeds compete for prizes, ranging from the beautiful gray Herdwicks, which owe their existence to Beatrix Potter’s conservation efforts, to the sturdy Ryelands with their prized wool, once nicknamed Leominster Ore.
The goats are housed nearby, emitting a distinct cheesy smell. Leaflets and notices extol the many benefits of goats, from the nutritive value of their milk to the rich flavor of their meat and the high quality of their wool. The pig pens are usually swarming with enthusiastic children pointing at the snoozing Tamworth sow, whose brindle coat features stripes of black and brown. It’s often said that a Tamworth can “pick a pea from a pint pot” due to its pointy nose.
As you move into the cattle sheds, the atmosphere becomes more calm and serious. Each breed society has its own stall. While sheep may fetch handsome prices, goats may attract passionate enthusiasts, and pigs have even spawned children’s TV shows, the real money is found among the giant Simmentals and white-faced Herefords. Victorian show judges particularly favored the cattle sheds, and their descriptions of prize dairy specimens often leaned towards the more colorful side of country life, with mentions of “grand bosoms” and “perfect loins.”
In the distance, the entries for the Pony Club fancy dress parade are announced, causing excitement. The sound of chainsaw carving fills the air. This year, the Northumberland County Show featured camel racing and “giant Aldabra tortoises” alongside traditional events like the gundog scurry and the Young Farmers’ Club tug-of-war. Amidst bubble football and axe-throwing demonstrations, it’s hard to believe that until the 1950s, most agricultural shows refused to include show jumping due to considering it too frivolous. One critic even remarked that the Great Yorkshire Show had become nothing but “a giant car boot fair with a few animals.”
However, that’s missing the point. Over the years, agricultural shows have become beloved traditions, and traditions are shaped by what people want, not just what they need. Nowadays, fun is a top priority at these shows, with activities ranging from folk bands to local cider stalls, ferret racing to wrestling, offering entertainment for people of all ages.
Despite all the fun and entertainment, agricultural shows still serve their purpose as promoters of modern farming. This year’s Great Yorkshire Show even had an Innovation Zone that showcased high-tech farming equipment like automatic Hoofcount footbaths and a 100% methane-powered tractor. Lord Coke would surely approve.
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