When I returned home from my childhood summers in San Fernando, my mother would wash my mouth out with soap if she caught me speaking Kapampangan, a language I learned from my cousins. She discouraged me from speaking my father’s language, fearing that I would sound rustic or mispronounce words with “h.” However, after 45 years of marriage, she still hadn’t picked up enough Kapampangan to realize that her in-laws were talking about her right in front of her.
One day, while crossing the North Luzon Expressway viaduct, my father pointed out the Rio Grande or great Pampanga River as the physical and linguistic boundary between Bulacan and Pampanga. He explained that when you cross the bridge, an egg in Tagalog (“itlog”) is transformed into a bird in Kapampangan (“ebun”). Similarly, ants in Tagalog (“langgam”) become animals in Kapampangan (“[h]ayup”) when crossing from the Tagalog to Kapampangan region. My mother wasn’t impressed.
Recently, I visited Sulipan on the eve of the June 29 feast of Saints Peter and Paul, patrons of Apalit. It was during this visit that I understood why the outspoken Caloocan Archbishop Pablo Virgilio David is called “Ambo.” Sulipan is a barrio in Apalit, Pampanga, that has seen better days. Its reputation for legendary Kapampangan hospitality can be found in travel accounts from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, where references to the Arnedo home and its grand affairs were made. Notable figures such as Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich Romanov of Russia have been hosted in Sulipan, praising its impressive ballroom.
During my visit, I had the opportunity to indulge in the traditional fiesta fare, including lechon, asado, kare-kare, dinuguan Ilocano, and the watery Kapampangan version called “tidtad,” all made from suckling pig. For dessert, we enjoyed leche flan and halayang ube. Additionally, I had the chance to try heritage dishes from the 19th century that Sulipan is known for, such as cabeza de jabali (stuffed boar’s head), chicken galantina (with chorizo and olives), lengua con setas (ox tongue with mushrooms), caldereta de cabrito (young goat stew), menudo Sulipeña (ox-tail stew or rabo de toro), and bringhe (a paella-like casserole with coconut milk). I was also introduced to “Suspiros de amor,” a meringue dessert that has been a Sulipan staple since Rizal’s time.
Sulipan may have seen better days, but it continues to live on through its rich history, language, and the taste of its beloved heritage dishes that are lovingly prepared for the town fiesta each year.
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