I often get asked the question of which cookbook or recipe is my favorite, akin to being asked about my favorite child. While I feel obliged to say that I love all my books, recipes, and children equally, I must admit that there are certain books, recipes, and types of food that I find myself gravitating towards at different times of the year. For me, September signifies the beginning of a new school term and a change in season, and this is always the time when I reach for my cookbook “Jerusalem,” which I co-wrote with Sami Tamimi and was published 13 years ago this month – a true teenager! This cookbook celebrates the cuisine of the Middle East and it holds a special place in my heart throughout the year.
One particular dish that stands out to me from “Jerusalem” is the Tahdig with golden raisins and orange blossom. Tahdig is a Persian rice dish that literally translates to “bottom of the pan,” referring to the crispy bottom layer that forms during the cooking process. Making tahdig is always a bit of a surprise, as you won’t know if you’ve achieved the desired golden bottom until you turn it out. To ensure success, it’s important to use a pan with even heat distribution or an induction hob. If you don’t have these options, lining the pan with greaseproof paper can help prevent the tahdig from sticking. It’s a clever trick that always pays off.
Here is the recipe:
Preparation Time: 2 hours (including soaking time)
Cooking Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Serves: 6 as a side
For the spiced rice:
– 500g basmati rice, washed and soaked in plenty of cold water for 1 hour
– 130g Greek yoghurt
– 2 tbsp olive oil
– 2 tsp cumin seeds
– 10 cardamom pods, bashed open, pods discarded, and seeds crushed to get ½ tsp
– ¼ tsp saffron threads, lightly crushed and soaked in 50ml hot water for 10 minutes
– 70g unsalted butter, cut into roughly 1½cm cubes
– Fine sea salt
For the topping:
– 25g pine nuts
– 2 tbsp olive oil
– 80g golden or regular raisins
– 40g sugar (any)
– 35ml apple cider vinegar
– ¼ tsp saffron threads, lightly crushed and soaked in 1 tbsp hot water for 10 minutes
– 1 tbsp orange blossom water (optional)
1. Fill a large saucepan three-quarters full with well-salted water (10g salt per litre) and bring to a boil. Drain the rice and rinse several times with cold water until the water runs clear.
2. Parboil the drained rice for five minutes, then drain again and rinse under cold water.
3. In a large bowl, mix together the yoghurt, olive oil, cumin, and cardamom. Stir in three-quarters of the saffron and its liquid. Gently fold in 250g of the parboiled rice until well coated.
4. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large nonstick saute pan. Swirl it around to coat the pan, then evenly spread the saffron rice mixture over the base. Pile the remaining parboiled rice on top to create a pyramid shape. Scatter the cubed butter and the remaining saffron and its soaking liquid over the rice. Use the handle of a wooden spoon to pierce five holes in the rice.
5. Wrap the lid of the pan with a clean tea towel to catch any steam. Cover the pan tightly and cook on medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for another 30 minutes without lifting the lid.
6. Remove the pan from the heat and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
7. While the rice is resting, prepare the topping. Heat the pine nuts and olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat until the nuts are toasted and golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the nuts to a small bowl. Add the remaining topping ingredients to the hot oil in the pan. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes until the mixture becomes syrupy and golden. Stir the mixture into the bowl of pine nuts.
8. Place a large, round serving plate on top of the rice pan. Holding both the pan and the plate tightly, quickly and carefully flip the pan to release the tahdig onto the plate. Pour the topping over the crisp rice and serve.
Once again, if you’re looking for something special for September, I highly recommend reaching for “Jerusalem” and trying out this exquisite Tahdig recipe. You won’t be disappointed!
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