Louis Vuitton’s latest launch of the redesigned Tambour case marks a significant step for the brand. Jean Arnault, the watch director at Louis Vuitton, expressed its importance, stating, “This is probably the most important launch for Louis Vuitton since the launch of the Tambour 21 years ago.” The event took place in the Musée d’Orsay, where notable figures such as Bradley Cooper, Alicia Vikander, and Michael Fassbender joined friends of the brand, collectors, influencers, and media representatives from around the world.
The star-studded gathering not only introduced the brand’s updated Tambour case as a sports watch with an integrated metal bracelet, but it also signaled Louis Vuitton’s move towards a more upscale market. While the brand will continue to produce Tambour connected watches, it plans to highlight precious materials, elevate artisanal work, reduce output, refocus distribution, and raise prices. Louis Vuitton aims to remove 80% of its existing entry-level collection to make room for the new product, eliminating all fashion-oriented men’s watches with quartz movements from its offerings. The brand’s focus is to reposition Louis Vuitton as a super-high-end brand in the watch sector overall.
The redesigned Tambour line embodies this strategic shift. These timepieces showcase exquisite finishes and intricate designs, with prices ranging from $18,000 to $52,000. Starting from September 1, the watches will be available in only around a quarter of the approximately 500 Louis Vuitton boutiques worldwide, with production limited to hundreds rather than thousands annually.
Louis Vuitton’s new Tambour sports watch with an integrated metal bracelet comes in stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, and a two-metal version. The drum-shaped case has undergone a complete redesign, addressing its previous thickness issue. Jean Arnault explained, “The original Tambour case had a defect: its thickness. It has always been a thick watch visible from across the room. Now we have gone from around 13 millimeters to 8.3 millimeters. And the 40-millimeter diameter feels like 40, because the bracelet goes straight into the case.”
The sleek curved bracelet appears seamless and is made with meticulous attention to detail. Louis Vuitton prioritized haute horlogerie finishes and comfort when creating the bracelet for their integrated sports steel watch. The dials come in gray, blue, white, or brown, showcasing gold indexes. The dials include the words “Louis Vuitton Paris” along with the subtly engraved “Fab. en Suisse,” highlighting the brand’s French origins.
The collaboration between La Fabrique du Temps and Le Cercle des Horlogers produced the new Tambour’s movement, the LFT023. Louis Vuitton included the same handmade finishes found in their timepieces worth $400,000 to $500,000, emphasizing the value of their artisans’ work. The movement’s reliability and efficiency led to a five-year warranty, a departure from the previous two-year warranty offered by the brand.
Louis Vuitton’s shift in strategy and the redesigned Tambour represent significant announcements from Jean Arnault since assuming his position. He also founded the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, an award for young watchmakers set to debut in January. The decision to focus on the top end of horology aligns with the trend seen in Swiss watch exports over the past five years. While the number of watches shipped declined, the value of exported Swiss timepieces reached a record high in 2022.
According to Jack Forster, global editorial director at WatchBox, the price range of the new Tambours, starting at $18,000, is considered appropriate for the quality and design offered. Louis Vuitton also provides a trunk-style storage box with each watch, emphasizing the brand’s trunk-making heritage.
As for the commercial potential of the new Tambour, Jean Arnault believes it is the right move for Louis Vuitton. He expressed confidence in the watch and the lessons the brand has learned from the industry throughout its history. With its elevated craftsmanship, attention to detail, and strategic positioning, Louis Vuitton’s new Tambour line is set to make a statement in the luxury watch sector.
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