Burgess Park may not be the most visually stunning park in the UK, let alone in its own vicinity in south-east London. It has been aptly described as resembling an “unfinished late-Soviet-era public space in suburban Łódź”. Its main attraction is not a garden, lido, or playground, but rather a bridge to nowhere. These undeniable facts are not up for debate. It is not the largest, coolest, or most scenic park. However, what sets Burgess Park apart is its extraordinary usage.
Unlike most parks in British cities, which were once countryside sanctuaries, Burgess Park emerged from the ashes of bombed-out streets and man-made canals. It is an integral part of the city itself, immersing visitors in the bustling essence of London. Prior to 2020, during the summer months, the park boasted a cross-cultural barbecue scene that rivaled any in Europe.
In 2011, the Southwark council did something pioneering by approving the use of permanent barbecues in a designated section of Burgess Park. Disposable barbecues are notorious for damaging grass and starting fires, so this decision was a proactive step to provide the local community with a safe alternative. And the community embraced it wholeheartedly. Almost instantly, the park became a vibrant hub of barbecue culture, particularly among the African, Caribbean, and Latin American communities neighboring the park. These gatherings were not your typical sausages and burgers on a flimsy Tesco box; they featured tantalizing dishes like jerk chicken, picanha, ribs, and suya, consumed and shared in large groups. Santiago Peluffo, co-director of the charity Latin Elephant, aptly described it as “the closest possible experience to an Argentinian asado in London”. Walking through the barbecue area, surrounded by the rhythmic beats of reggaeton, Afrobeats, or bullerengue, was like being transported to a different continent altogether.
However, since 2020, the barbecue area has remained closed. Initially, it was shut down by the Southwark council to prevent large gatherings during the pandemic. But summer after summer, it has remained off-limits, without any public consultation. Throughout the country, the pandemic has become an excuse to restrict access to public spaces without proper due process, transforming shared spaces into restricted enclosures. This trend is evident in the recent closure of Primrose Hill in north London, supposedly to combat “antisocial behavior”. Similar flimsy explanations have been given for the closure of the barbecue area in Burgess Park, ranging from air pollution concerns to fire risks, despite the fact that this lack of facilities encourages the use of more dangerous disposable barbecues. It is evident that despite inadvertently creating a thriving barbecue culture, the council is almost embarrassed by its success.
The union of food and parks may not have been part of the grand design. Historically, British parks have been influenced by Victorian ideals, viewing them as spaces to instill moral rectitude and physical fitness in a population tainted by urban vices. This paternalistic perspective still lingers. For example, when Alexandra Park opened in Moss Side, Manchester in 1870, its purpose was not only to provide a setting for promenading but also to keep working-class men away from alehouses on their days off. However, parks have evolved into spaces where those excluded from the commercialization and privatization of urban areas can regain a sense of control over the city. Alexandra Park, once a site for suffrage demonstrations, now hosts the Manchester Caribbean carnival. Likewise, in Burgess Park, visitors can stumble upon a forum on Colombian elections, join a salsa class, or contribute to a barbecue fundraiser for victims of the Windrush scandal. Many people who frequent the park lack their own gardens and are prohibited from occupying pavements and public squares.
Over the past few months, I have actively participated in events organized by We Walworth, a partnership that aims to unite residents with the council to address and resolve local issues. I have also engaged in conversations with individuals within the park itself. The desire for the return of the barbecues is palpable. A working group, consisting of local residents, community workers, ward councillors, and civil servants from local and central government, has developed a plan for a phased reopening. However, Southwark council has chosen to announce the dismantling of the current barbecue area.
There are valid concerns raised by some objections, such as the litter and noise associated with the barbecues. However, others express feeling “intimidated and excluded” by the sheer popularity of the barbecues. Similar sentiments have been echoed on neighborhood platforms like Nextdoor, often tainted with racial and class prejudices. Suggestions have been made to enhance inclusivity for those who previously didn’t use the barbecue area, but this fundamentally misunderstands the concept of a public space. In Burgess Park, one can run, cycle, play tennis, dance, utilize the BMX track, relax by the lake and fish, or be part of a Latin fiesta. The fact that not all activities appeal to everyone is not a weakness; it epitomizes the essence of public space.
Rather than ignoring or extinguishing the barbecue culture that has flourished, councils across the country should learn from Burgess Park’s success. If public amenities are provided according to people’s needs, they will be embraced and utilized. The solution lies not in appeasing those who were never inclined to partake, but in supporting those who already do. Increasing the number of bins, toilets, and other necessary facilities will help people feel a sense of ownership over the space they inhabit. As John Grave, the former mayor of Manchester, aptly declared at the inauguration of Alexandra Park over 150 years ago: “The people have made it, the people have paid for it, and the people will use it.”
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