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After three days of pleading with Njord, the Norse god of wind, to stop causing trouble, I finally found myself walking towards Iceland’s newest volcano eruption on Monday afternoon. The sky was illuminated by a pinkish halo, casting a beautiful silhouette on the surrounding hills formed by past eruptions. There were around a thousand people on the trail, including cyclists, children, and even two Jehovah’s Witnesses in suits.
The eruption at a hill called Litli-Hrútur (Little Ram) started spewing lava on July 10. Within 24 hours, Icelandic authorities opened a footpath for tourists to trek and witness the eruption. “If you prevent people from going, they’ll find a way to sneak in and get into trouble,” says Sigridur Dögg Gudmundsdóttir, head of Visit Iceland. Early reports from Litli-Hrútur mentioned people climbing over still-soft lava. “We never publicize eruptions, but we needed a safe route,” she adds.
The demand was undeniable. Icelandic tour operators quickly started offering guided hikes. Discover the World, a UK-based operator specializing in the region, rushed to launch a three-day volcano tour. “We received inquiries on July 11 and started taking bookings within 24 hours,” says Clive Stacey, the founder. The new eruption is part of the Fagradalsfjall volcanic system, located only 20km from Iceland’s main airport and 30km from the capital Reykjavík. When Fagradalsfjall sporadically erupted for six months in 2021, an estimated 350,000 people came to witness it. Icelandic authorities opened a hiking trail within a day of the eruption, marked by a new sign.
As a former geology student, I have traveled the world to see erupting volcanoes, from Mount Merapi in Indonesia to the recent explosion in La Palma. When I heard about Litli-Hrútur, I immediately flew there, only to find that the new path had been closed almost as quickly as it had opened. Strong winds were blowing smoke from burning moss, ignited by the new lava, towards the path. “It’s been difficult knowing that the eruption could end at any moment,” said Jeroen van Nieuwenhove, my guide and a professional volcano photographer. After three frustrating days, the trail reopened just before my flight home. Jeroen and I hurried to the start of the trailhead, where a farmer’s field had been turned into a makeshift car park for hundreds of vehicles. I saw someone taking a selfie dangerously close to the cone, narrowly avoiding a lava bomb.
While the wildfires had been extinguished, the blackened lava hills still carried a strong smell of smoke. Jeroen pointed out where the lava from the current eruption had already flowed several kilometers. The walk to the volcano was long but flat, around 8km each way. Are volcanoes too dangerous to be tourist attractions? Professor Thorvaldur Thordarson, a volcanologist at the University of Iceland, believes it can be done responsibly. “It’s generally safe upwind of the plume until you reach the vent,” he says. Government statistics from the 2021 eruption show that only 0.1% of visitors had accidents, mainly minor falls during the steep hike. “Trouble arises when people act irresponsibly. I saw someone taking a selfie dangerously close to the cone, narrowly avoiding a lava bomb.”
As we got closer to the volcano, the lava flow became more exciting. Crowds gathered near the creeping lava flow, and search-and-rescue teams in high-visibility jackets politely asked them to step back. Finally, the man on crutches arrived. I met a Belgian couple, Aris and Frederika, who were celebrating their fifth wedding anniversary at the volcano. “We booked flights an hour after the eruption started. We didn’t want to miss a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” says Frederika. “When we saw the volcano, we couldn’t help but burst into tears.”
The scene felt like being in Mordor, with dust devils stirring up the crumbling soil. The cold evening air clashed with waves of heat from the molten rock. The sound of moving lava resembled shattering glass, and as darkness fell around midnight, glowing viscous lava pockets became more visible. A couple even toasted marshmallows on sticks.
Jeroen’s drone provided a close-up view of the lava fountains inside the cone, capturing stunning footage. Although we weren’t allowed to get closer than 1.5km to the cone due to the gas plume being blown towards the trail, the drone gave us an incredible perspective. The new cone stood about 25m tall, and its pink-tinted smoke merged with the clouds. While it was slightly disappointing not to get closer, Jeroen’s drone allowed us to witness the lava fountains and the smooth, bright orange lava flowing downstream.
For a volcanologist like myself, witnessing such a spectacle is not about seeking an adrenaline rush (I would never bungee jump), but rather a profound connection to something greater. “You’re witnessing the creation of our planet,” explains Professor Thordarson. “Volcanoes are responsible for creating the habitable environment we live in. They maintain our atmosphere and contribute to the existence of life on Earth.” He’s uncertain about how long this current eruption will last, but geophysicists have noted widespread magma accumulation beneath the surface of the Reykjanes Peninsula, suggesting eruptions could occur here for hundreds of years.
To experience this incredible natural phenomenon, consider booking a trip with Discover the World. Their three-night package includes a guided hike to see the recent eruption and car rental, starting from £911. Flights from the UK are priced at approximately £250. While you’re in Iceland, don’t forget to visit The Lava Show in Reykjavik, where you can witness a simulated lava display using a blast furnace. Stay updated on the latest travel news by visiting our website and following @ftweekend on Twitter.
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