Freddie Mercury, the iconic frontman of Queen, is renowned for his musical contributions, but his impact on style is equally significant. An auction and exhibition at Sotheby’s titled “Freddie Mercury: A World of His Own” showcases the contents of his home, Garden Lodge, which were left to his close friend Mary Austin after his death in 1991. The exhibition includes an impressive collection of 30,000 items, ranging from the baby grand piano used to compose “Bohemian Rhapsody” to personal Polaroids, original song lyrics, and artwork by esteemed artists like Goya and Salvador Dalí. However, it is Mercury’s clothing that takes center stage at Sotheby’s, with over 200 items on display.
One of the exhibition rooms highlights the fantastical outfits Mercury wore during performances and parties. These include his jacket from Queen’s first photoshoots in 1970, a short red sequined catsuit worn at Wembley in 1978, and a biker jacket and red leggings from his appearance on Saturday Night Live in 1982. Fashion enthusiasts will also appreciate the inclusion of worn ballet shoes and small leotards from his stage performances, as well as pieces by renowned designers like Zandra Rhodes and David Emanuel, who famously designed Princess Diana’s wedding dress.
The exhibition also delves into Mercury’s off-duty clothing. A room designed to resemble his walk-in wardrobe showcases T-shirts, intriguing items such as a waistcoat adorned with paintings of his beloved cats, and a blue gabardine suit worn at one of his final public appearances – the Brit Awards in 1990.
Another room displays Mercury’s extensive kimono collection, often worn by him, his close friend Anita Dobson, and their friends at Garden Lodge. Curated by rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia experts Carey Wallace and Sarah Hodgson, the collection emphasizes Mercury’s meticulous attention to detail and creative vision when it comes to fashion. For example, he hand-stitched sequins onto a ballet cardigan, highlighting his passion for image and self-expression.
Mercury’s fashion sensibility coalesced from his pre-fame experiences. He and Roger Taylor, Queen’s drummer, owned a secondhand stall at Kensington Market. Mercury also worked as a shop assistant for Alan Mair, the go-to designer for glam rock platform boots, famously fitting David Bowie with a pair. Even before his rise to fame, Mercury’s personal style stood out, with his fondness for vintage women’s jackets being particularly noteworthy, as exemplified in the iconic “Bohemian Rhapsody” video.
Designer Wendy de Smet played a significant role in creating some of the most memorable pieces on display, including a white catsuit with quilted wings on the ankle. This outfit, intended to resemble the god Mercury, was worn during the A Night at the Opera tour in 1975 and the “Bohemian Rhapsody” video. De Smet recalls Mercury’s meticulousness, even providing her with the fabric to ensure optimum movement and requesting tight fittings that necessitated quadruple stitches to prevent any wardrobe malfunctions.
While Mercury was part of a group of flamboyantly dressed rock icons in the late 1960s and 1970s, including Bowie, Jimi Hendrix, Elton John, and Marc Bolan, his experimentation with androgynous fashion and his embrace of makeup and women’s clothing set him apart. Today, a new generation appreciates and identifies with his groundbreaking style. One such contemporary star influenced by Mercury is Harry Styles.
Towards the end of the 1970s, Mercury shifted away from catsuits and adopted a tougher look, featuring red vinyl trousers and a leather jacket, heavily influenced by the New York nightclub scene. Although he never publicly addressed his sexuality, in the 1980s, Mercury subtly used clothing to signal his orientation, incorporating elements associated with the gay scene of the time, like his leather jacket, moustache, and military cap. The collection even includes a vest from the Mineshaft, a notable gay leather club in New York. Through his clothing, Mercury effectively communicated aspects of his identity without explicitly stating them.
Mercury’s use of clothing, as showcased at the exhibition, exemplifies his sophistication as a performer and further solidifies his lasting legacy. He had a clear vision of how he wanted to present himself and effortlessly transformed into a riveting character on stage, despite his quiet and unassuming nature offstage.
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