The courgettes are currently roasting in the oven, and I have a plan for how to enjoy them. Half of them will be dressed with sultanas, pine kernels, and honey for today’s lunch, while the rest will serve as a salad for tomorrow. I also love roasting aubergines, red onions, and sweet potatoes using this method. Right now, there are so many vegetables that can be roasted, such as courgettes, summer squashes, young leeks, and summer carrots. I even have some early beetroot that is barely bigger than a golf ball. For the hot roasts, I plan to add soft, pale ricotta or a basil-scented pesto to toss them in. As for the cool versions tomorrow, I won’t refrigerate them and instead tumble jagged rocks of feta among the vegetables. I may also add pieces of smoked trout or wedges of lightly cooked, golden-yolked eggs.
When roasting water-rich vegetables like courgettes, it’s crucial to use a flat baking sheet and a hot oven to ensure they brown and caramelize properly. If the temperature is too low or if you use a deep-sided dish, the vegetables will steam in their own juices and won’t achieve that appetizing caramelization. The success of a dish like this relies on achieving that sweetly toasted flesh. Alternatively, you could grill the courgettes, but don’t forget to lightly oil them first and then dress them with honey and herbs once they come off the grill. It’s best to do this while they are still hot so they can soak up the sticky dressing.
As the summer cools down a bit, a hot pudding is always a welcome treat, especially when using seasonal fruits. Plums, apricots, greengages, and all the berries and currants are still at their best. This week, I added late, dark-skinned cherries to an almondy batter to create a warm, light finish to a summer dinner that had been a bit chilly. You could also try using larger stone fruits like plums cut into thick slices, but cherries have a special affinity for such puddings. Spooning sour cherry jam and double cream over a standard Yorkshire pudding is another delightful option.
Tossing the fruit in brandy may seem unusual for someone who rarely uses alcohol in baking, but the warmth it brings truly enhances the dish. The aroma of fruit, sweet batter, and brandy was simply divine on a chilly summer evening.
Now, let’s move on to the recipe for honey-roasted courgettes with ricotta. To serve four, you’ll need four medium courgettes, two tablespoons of honey, six tablespoons of olive oil, three teaspoons of dried mint, two tablespoons of thyme leaves, two cloves of garlic, one teaspoon of ground paprika, 50g of golden sultanas, one tablespoon of pine kernels, and 250g of ricotta. Start by preheating the oven to 220C/gas mark 7. Remove the stalks from the courgettes and cut each in half lengthways and then again. Place the courgettes on an oven tray. In a bowl, mix together the honey, olive oil, mint, and a grinding of black pepper. Don’t add salt yet. Finely chop the thyme leaves and crush the garlic to a paste. Stir the thyme and garlic into the honey and oil mixture. Pour the dressing over the courgettes, toss them well, and then roast for 20-25 minutes until the courgettes are tender and toasted, turning them once during cooking. Remove from the oven and season with ground paprika, a generous amount of sea salt, sultanas, and pine kernels. Return to the oven for an additional 5-7 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and serve with ricotta.
Lastly, let’s discuss the cherry and almond batter pudding. This individual pudding is like a jewel-studded crown, perfect for floating a puddle of golden cream. You can bake it in an earthenware or china dish, but a shallow metal dish yields the best results. For this recipe, you’ll need 350g of cherries, 4 tablespoons of brandy, ½ teaspoon of almond extract (optional), 125ml of milk, 125ml of double cream, 50g of plain flour, 3 lightly heaped tablespoons of ground almonds, 100g of caster sugar, 2 large eggs, and a little butter and sugar for dusting. Start by removing the stalks and stones from the cherries and placing them in a mixing bowl. Add the brandy and almond extract, then toss briefly and set aside. Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4 and place a baking sheet in the oven. To make the batter, warm the milk and cream in a small pan, then remove from the heat and set aside. In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, almonds, sugar, and a pinch of salt. Whisk in the eggs together with the warm cream and milk. Lightly butter the dish and dust it with sugar, discarding any excess. Place the cherries, drained of their brandy, in the dish and pour the custard over them. Bake for about 25-30 minutes until the edges have risen and the batter is pale gold. The center should quiver gently when the dish is lightly shaken. Serve with cream.
Remember to follow Nigel on Instagram @NigelSlater for more culinary inspiration.
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