The first time I visited Jo’s house, I noticed something on the draining board. From a distance, it resembled sponges or sections of loofah that I used to see in our bathroom in the 1980s. But upon closer inspection, I realized that it was bits of bread floating in a tub of blue water.
At that moment, I learned about panzanella, a dish made with old bread. Jo explained that the quantity of water depends on the age of the bread. The older the bread, the more water it needs. Several days-old bread only requires a quick swish under the tap to dampen it, while firmer bread needs a cup of water poured over it. Hard or rock-hard bread requires complete soaking to soften it. Once softened, the bread needs to be squeezed to achieve the desired consistency of damp crumbs.
I have previously written about bread salad and panzanella. Originally known as “cold bread soup,” panzanella consists of bread soaked in water (hence the name pan – bread – zanella – the dish) and topped with sliced onion and cucumber. Over time, it has evolved to include diced tomatoes, ripped basil, pepper, red-wine vinegar, anchovies, and egg. The choice of bread and its age play a crucial role in preparing the salad, determining whether to use slices, rags, cubes, toasted cubes, or crumbs.
I often prefer using very old bread for panzanella because when it reaches a rock-hard state, soaking it is the best solution. I enjoy the crumb-like texture that soaked and crumbled bread brings to the dish, reminiscent of bulgur wheat in tabbouleh. My version of this salad takes inspiration from cialledda, a bread salad from Basilicata, which incorporates carosello, a variety of muskmelon native to Southern Italy. Additionally, I include watermelon, both its juice and flesh, thanks to a creative idea from chef Vitantonio Lombardo, which adds a soft, savory sweetness to the dish.
Although my creation has influences from panzanella, cialledda, and tabbouleh, I haven’t given it a specific name. I also discovered that natural loofahs are dried, fibrous skeletons derived from luffa plants, which are part of the gourd family, just like watermelons and cucumbers. Such a useful family indeed.
Bread, Tomato, Cucumber, and Watermelon Salad
Serves 4
300g seedless watermelon flesh
500g two-day-old bread (country-style, sourdough, or ciabatta)
1 red onion, peeled, halved, and diced
Red-wine vinegar
20 cherry tomatoes, diced
2-3 small Lebanese cucumbers or caroselli, peeled and diced
1 huge handful ripped basil
Dried oregano
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Press two-thirds of the watermelon flesh through a sieve to obtain juice. Cut the remaining flesh into small cubes, ensuring any escaped juices are added to the rest.
The age of the bread determines the next steps. If it’s just a few days old, rip it into small pieces, place in a bowl, and cover with the watermelon juice. If it’s too hard, put the whole bread lump in a bowl, pour over the juice, let it sit for half an hour while turning regularly, then crumble it with your hands. Squeeze out any excess liquid if necessary.
Place the diced onion in a bowl, cover it with a 50:50 mixture of water and red-wine vinegar, and let it sit for 10 minutes.
Drain the onion, then combine it with the bread. Add the tomatoes, cucumbers, watermelon, basil, a pinch of oregano, and six teaspoons of olive oil. Taste and add salt if needed, along with a dash of red-wine vinegar if desired. Let it sit for 10 minutes to an hour, then toss again before serving.
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