The bánh mì sandwich has a fascinating history that spans different cultures. While its roots are Vietnamese, references to bánh mì can be traced back to Vietnam in the early 1800s. However, it wasn’t until the arrival of French colonists in the 19th century, who introduced baguettes to the country, that the sandwich truly came into its own. During World War I, when wheat imports were disrupted, Vietnamese chefs started experimenting with rice flour, making bread more accessible to the local people. In the 1950s, bánh mì developed a distinctively Vietnamese taste, deviating from its French origins. Since the 1970s, with the spread of Vietnamese communities around the world, bánh mì has become a global phenomenon, found wherever there are Vietnamese people.
My personal introduction to bánh mì happened in a small coffee shop in Houston’s Third Ward neighborhood. The shop, now closed, was operated by a dedicated team comprised of a mother, son, and aunt, using just a single toaster oven. Ever since then, my craving for bánh mì has remained unrelenting, making it a must-try dish whenever I visit a new city.
During a trip to Amsterdam, I stumbled upon a cozy Vietnamese diner on a chilly corner by a canal. The chef there generously slathered pâté on my sandwich, taking it to a whole new level of decadence. In Seattle, I sat at ChuMinh Tofu and Vegan Deli, savoring a bánh mì that had the perfect crunch, accompanied by the most incredible chile crisp I’ve ever tasted. And when I visited Bánh Mì Bá Ba in Tokyo, sitting on a stool by the roadside felt like being at a dear friend’s patio.
However, it’s in Houston where the accessibility of bánh mì brings me the most joy. It’s hard to drive around Harris and Fort Bend Counties without coming across multiple places that serve this delicious sandwich. Each spot caters to its own clientele, but they all serve as third places for the community. You can take a moment to sit, relax, bite into a tasty sandwich, sip on some coffee, and then continue with your day.
In this recipe, pork takes center stage. After a quick marinade, the meat is broiled and then stuffed into a warm baguette along with pickles, mayo, butter, and a sprinkle of herbs. It’s best to get the baguettes and butter from a Vietnamese bakery or bánh mì shop, and while you’re there, you might as well pick up some pâté too. And don’t hesitate to prepare extra pork shoulder, as leftovers can be used to make more delicious bánh mì in the future.
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