Exploring Umbria’s Charm via Train – The New York Times

Umbria, often referred to as the green heart of Italy, is a landlocked region that boasts an abundance of cultural and culinary treasures. The region is known for its truffles, olive oil, roast pork, sausage, wine, and cheese. Its hill towns, including Orvieto, Perugia, and Assisi, are home to remarkable cultural riches.

Orvieto’s medieval Cathedral is a sight to behold, with its brilliant reliefs and mosaics on the facade. Assisi, the birthplace of Renaissance art, houses Giotto’s stunning frescoes in the Basilica of San Francesco. Perugia is home to the National Gallery of Umbria, which showcases art dating back to the 13th century.

To explore these marvelous towns, you can conveniently take a train from Rome or Florence. Starting in Orvieto from Rome is a logical choice, with frequent trains available for a little over an hour. From Florence, you can reverse the trip and begin in Assisi and Perugia before heading to Orvieto and then Rome.

Each town in Umbria presents a unique way to reach its center from the train station. In Orvieto, a funicular ride will take you up the rock cliff, offering a breathtaking view of the surrounding green valley and distant hills. The town’s towering cathedral, constructed over several centuries, is adorned with resplendent mosaics and marble bas reliefs depicting biblical scenes.

While exploring Orvieto, be sure to sample the local delicacy called porchetta, a boneless pork roast stuffed with wild fennel and roasted to perfection. L’Angolo Divino is a recommended restaurant where you can savor slices of porchetta served with roast potatoes. Don’t forget to try Umbria’s umbrichelli pasta, different varieties of pecorino cheese, and dishes featuring truffles. Local wines, such as Orvieto Classico and Montefalcos, are also worth tasting.

As you wander through the charming streets of Orvieto, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Pozzo di San Patrizio, or St. Patrick’s Well. Designed by renowned architect Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, this 53-meter-deep well features two intertwining spiral staircases. Descending into the well offers a unique architectural experience, with the light gradually diminishing and then returning as you climb back up.

In Perugia, a two-hour train ride from Orvieto, you’ll find yourself in a vibrant university town. The Piazza IV Novembre is a must-visit, featuring the cathedral and the Fontana Maggiore, a medieval fountain adorned with magnificent marble basins. Here, you can also indulge in Perugia’s famous chocolates, particularly the hazelnut-chocolate Baci.

While in Perugia, take the time to explore the National Gallery of Umbria at the Palazzo dei Priori. This expansive museum houses works by renowned artists such as Perugino, Pinturicchio, Beato Angelico, and Piero della Francesca.

From Perugia, a short train ride will take you to Assisi, a town known for its spiritual significance. The Basilica of San Francesco of Assisi is a major attraction, famous for its stunning artwork and as a destination for religious tours and pilgrimages. For a serene experience, visit the basilica early in the morning to beat the crowds.

To fully immerse yourself in the beauty of Umbria, consider staying at the Hotel Duomo in Orvieto, where some rooms offer views of the cathedral square. Alternatively, the luxury hotel Sina Brufani in Perugia provides a comfortable stay near the Giardini Carducci, where you can enjoy picturesque views of the surrounding hills.

Umbria, with its blend of rich culture and tantalizing cuisine, is a destination that promises to delight every visitor. Whether you’re an art enthusiast, a food lover, or a pilgrim seeking spiritual solace, this region offers a truly unforgettable experience.

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