Taking respite under the shade of a hawthorn bush beside the trail, I find myself captivated by the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The gentle breeze causes the cow parsley to sway gracefully, while the budding elderflowers add a touch of vitality. Following the prominent white chalk line of the footpath with my eyes, I become immersed in the serenity of the moment. Suddenly, a hare emerges from the hedge just a few meters away and pauses on the path. Time stands still as we share a calm and tranquil connection, its golden eyes glistening. Holding my breath in anticipation, the hare eventually takes notice of my presence and darts away into the undergrowth with astounding agility. As I exhale, I realize that these are the moments that make walks truly special.
Currently traversing a section of the Ridgeway national trail across the awe-inspiring chalklands of the North Wessex Downs, I find myself in an area of exceptional natural beauty. Often referred to as Britain’s oldest road, this historic route spans a total of 87 miles from Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire to Avebury in Wiltshire. The Ridgeway offers a tapestry of rolling chalk hills, precious grasslands, ancient woodlands, enchanting villages, and intriguing historical sites.
2022 marks the 50th anniversary of the designation of the Ridgeway as a national trail, joining the ranks of renowned trails such as the Pennine Way, Offa’s Dyke, and South West Coast Path in celebrating the diverse and breathtaking landscapes of our nation. The Ridgeway showcases a panorama of rolling chalk hills, rare grasslands, ancient woodlands, quaint villages, and captivating historical sites.
Accessible to both walkers and equestrians, with the western half being open to horse riders and mountain bikers as well, the Ridgeway offers a versatile experience for outdoor enthusiasts. While experienced hikers typically complete the entire trail in six days, one of the remarkable aspects of the Ridgeway is its suitability for shorter day walks, weekend excursions, or the opportunity to combine it with other paths to create circular routes. Despite its proximity to towns like Swindon, Reading, and Luton, the Ridgeway provides a haven of tranquility and a genuine sense of escape. And let’s not forget about the hares!
Having allocated a couple of days for my adventure, I have chosen a middle section of the trail that includes the Uffington White Horse, Wayland’s Smithy, Segsbury Hillfort, and picturesque rolling hills. By cleverly combining additional footpaths, public transportation, and a taxi, I have crafted a two-day escapade that feels far more remote than it actually is. Starting from Swindon, a convenient 20-minute bus ride takes me east to Hinton Parva, a village nestled below the Ridgeway, just like many other villages along the route. Historically, communities settled in these valley floors due to the presence of natural springs and streams, offering shelter, reliable water sources, and fertile land for agriculture. They utilized the sweeping chalk downlands for seasonal grazing and relied on the Ridgeway as a means of travel, trade, and pilgrimage during times of conflict.
Disembarking from the bus, I begin my north-eastern journey along the well-marked path. At every junction, the presence of fingerpost signs adorned with the distinctive acorn symbol, denoting a national trail, guides my way. While it is theoretically possible to navigate the entire route without a map, I prefer to carry the lightweight Harvey Maps Ridgeway map and utilize the OS Maps app on my phone for extra assurance.
My first stop is Wayland’s Smithy, located approximately four miles from Hinton Parva near Ashbury. This neolithic chambered tomb, dating back roughly 5,500 years to the Late Stone Age, comprises a long earth mound with an impressive structure and a stone-lined tomb at its southern end. Venturing along the narrow passageway, I feel the weight of the stone and earth surrounding me. Today, majestic beech trees encompass the tomb, creating an atmosphere akin to that of a verdant cathedral. The gentle breeze whispers ancient tales, transporting me to a different time and place.
Continuing my journey, I notice a distinctive hill on the horizon. Its clearly shaped edges indicate that it is not a natural formation. This hill is Uffington Castle, an Iron Age hillfort, which served as an enclosure for gatherings and was later repurposed by the Romans, who constructed a small shrine in its midst. Positioned below the fort, on the hill’s shoulder, lies one of the most iconic archaeological sites in southern England—the Uffington White Horse. This sinewy and abstracted hill figure, or “geoglyph,” has been estimated to originate from around 1,200 BC. The enduring presence of this ancient horse in the landscape can be attributed to the dedicated efforts of individuals who have maintained it over the course of 3,000 years, meticulously weeding the grass and replenishing the chalk trenches to preserve its sharp outline and vibrant color. The National Trust encourages members of the public and local schools to participate in the annual cleaning of the horse, ensuring this tradition is upheld. Joining these volunteers allows one to contribute to the preservation of a piece of history—an opportunity not to be missed.
Returning to the trail, I resume my stride. As the temperature rises, the birdsong diminishes, and my pace slows accordingly. Due to its elevated position, the Ridgeway is exposed to the elements. In winter, strong winds can batter the trail, while the chalky terrain can become slippery. In the height of summer, one is more likely to experience sunburn and thirst. Today, the warm currents carry the sweet scent of blooming oilseed rape fields from the yellow fields below, reminding me that I should have donned my hat a couple of hours earlier.
For those embarking on the Ridgeway, it is advisable to plan accommodations in advance as they are not abundant along the trail. I have made arrangements ahead of time and, although I have not covered a substantial distance, I am thrilled to reach Hill Barn Farm (£100 for two) at Sparsholt Firs, located four miles east of Wayland’s Smithy. The trail conveniently ends at the top of the farm’s driveway, placing me in close proximity after a day of walking. Following the bright and hospitable Jo in my socks, I feel more like a cherished houseguest than a paying customer. The walls are adorned with portraits featuring beloved shaggy ponies and joyful grandchildren. After a satisfyingly hot shower, donning fresh clothes and socks, I descend the stairs in anticipation. Over dinner, I engage in conversation with Craig, a fellow hiker who is also exploring a section of the trail. Together, we agree that compared to more challenging terrains, the Ridgeway allows one to adopt a more meditative rhythm. The trail’s unmistakable white line leads the way, freeing the mind to wander wherever it pleases.
The next morning, I set off again after a hearty breakfast. The harmonious trills and chirrups of hedgerow birds fill the air as skylarks soar toward the vast blue heavens. This region is renowned for its racehorses, and the undulating hillsides are adorned with picturesque gallops. Encompassing a portion of King Alfred’s Wessex, the Ridgeway likely served as a vital route for soldiers hurrying to defend their lands against Viking invasions. On a day like today, it is evident how this elevated trail would have been invaluable.
Denial of responsibility! VigourTimes is an automatic aggregator of Global media. In each content, the hyperlink to the primary source is specified. All trademarks belong to their rightful owners, and all materials to their authors. For any complaint, please reach us at – [email protected]. We will take necessary action within 24 hours.
